Nations fail to agree on production caps and chemical controls, delaying a critical solution to the plastic crisis
The world’s first legally binding treaty on plastic pollution has been delayed after 11 days of intense negotiations concluded without an agreement. In fact, delegates from 184 countries, meeting in Geneva until August 15, 2025, failed to bridge their differences on core measures, including a global cap on new plastic production and binding rules for toxic chemicals. While talks are scheduled to resume, the plastic crisis is left without a coordinated global solution for the foreseeable future.
Plastic pollution: Key points of disagreement
The most divisive issues that led to the deadlock were:
- Plastic production caps: A major rift emerged between nations pushing for legally binding limits on plastic production and those opposing it.
- Toxic chemicals: Talks stalled over whether to impose global, legally binding controls on the hazardous chemicals used in plastic manufacturing.
- Financing: There was no consensus on how to fund the implementation of the treaty, particularly to support developing nations.
Frustration and blame
The failure to reach an agreement sparked strong reactions from delegates. French ecology minister Agnès Pannier-Runacher told the closing session she was “enraged because despite genuine efforts by many, and real progress in discussions, no tangible results have been obtained.”
She underscored the urgency, stating, “Every year, millions of tonnes of plastic end up in nature, breaking down into invisible particles that enter our food, water and air. The scientific and medical evidence is clear: plastic kills. It poisons our oceans, soils and ultimately our bodies.”
In an apparent reference to oil-producing nations, Colombia’s delegate, Haendel Rodriguez, stated that a deal had been “blocked by a small number of states who simply did not want an agreement.” This aligns with reports that countries like Saudi Arabia insisted the talks focus solely on recycling and waste management, rather than addressing the root causes: cutting plastic production and regulating its toxic ingredients.
This opposition was anticipated. Diplomats and climate advocates had previously warned that efforts led by the European Union and small island states to cap virgin plastic production—a product of the fossil fuel industry—faced strong resistance from petrochemical-producing nations and the U.S.
(Source: Reuters & The Guardian)
Plastic pollution: What’s next?
The talks were adjourned, not ended, with the expectation of resuming at a future date. However, the collapse raises a critical question: is a meaningful agreement even possible amid global instability and competing economic interests?
The UN Environment Programme (UNEP) will continue to explore avenues for future discussions, potentially including a report on the talks at the UN Environment Assembly in Kenya this December. For now, delegates are left with widespread disappointment that a breakthrough on this significant environmental issue remains out of reach.
Why this matters
These negotiations were hailed as among the most consequential environmental talks since the Paris Climate Accord. Experts have continuously emphasised the urgent need for a treaty, highlighting the profound dangers of plastic pollution to human and planetary health. (Read more here).
Plastic pollution & the inevitable link to fashion
Do we need to know if there’s any correlation with fashion? Of course, there is.
Polyester is plastic. Derived from petroleum, this cheap synthetic fiber is the most profusely used material by fast fashion brands. The same toxic chemicals and production processes debated in Geneva are inherent to the creation of countless garments that flood the market each season. The failure of the treaty directly impacts the fashion industry‘s accountability for its environmental footprint.
A call to action: What can we do now?
Without a binding multilateral agreement, the responsibility shifts. While we continue to push our leaders for a global solution, we cannot wait. And so, we must:
- Support brands committed to change: Choose companies that are transparent about their supply chains and use recycled, circular, and natural materials.
- Demand legislation: Advocate for strong national and local laws that ban single-use plastics and hold producers responsible for their waste.
- Change our habits: Embrace the principles of “reduce, reuse, and recycle” in our wardrobes. Buy less, choose well, and extend the life of our clothing.
The collapse of the talks is a setback, but it cannot be an excuse for inaction. The power to demand change has never been more critical.