Fashion isn’t a job for women: Italy’s fashion industry is losing female leaders
The women in the fashion industry narrative has always been a paradox: an industry run by women, but led by men. New data reveals a 1.2% drop in female board representation in Italy’s fashion sector. This isn’t just a statistic—it’s proof that fashion isn’t a job for women at the decision-making table.
Women remain marginalised not only in creative director roles—where they’re still a stark minority—but across all decision-making positions. The gender inequality is undeniable.
The big picture: Women’s shrinking leadership
Despite five years of progress, female representation in top corporate roles has declined. The Women and Fashion: The 2024 Barometer (an observatory promoted by PwC Italia in collaboration with Il Foglio della Moda) shows that fewer than one in three leadership positions in Italian fashion are held by women. (Source: Pambianco).
The fifth edition of this study examined female presence across the entire fashion supply chain, quantitatively and qualitatively, using a sample of 106 companies associated with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI). In 2024, women held 30.6% of governing roles, down from 30.9% in 2023.
The workforce paradox: Women at the bottom, men at the top
The numbers grow more concerning at board level, where the figure drops further: just 25.8% female representation in 2024, down from 27%—a 1.2 percentage point decline. Looking at the transition from 2023 to 2024, the data highlights a troubling trend.
Yet moving down the industry pyramid to the broader workforce, female representation is far more prominent. In 2023, women accounted for 59.3% of total employment in the textile and clothing sectors.
In terms of job roles, the highest concentration of women is found in clerical positions, where they represent 59.1% of employees. In the clothing sector alone, this number rises to 73.8%. Women also make up 45.7% of workers in textiles and 64.3% in clothing.
However, female representation declines sharply in executive and management positions.
In the tanning and accessories sector, women make up 49.6% of employees. Of these, 70.5% are in operational roles, 27.5% hold administrative positions, and a mere 2% are in managerial roles.
The exception (SMEs) vs. the rule (big brands)
There are, however, some encouraging signs from the SME sector. In small and medium-sized enterprises—often family-run—nearly three out of four CEOs are women. Family-run businesses buck the trend, but in major fashion houses, male leadership remains the norm.
As for the areas of focus, women in management roles are primarily found in production (19%), administration and accounting (16%), design (12%), and sales (10%).
Women in the fashion industry: Creative director gap
Even in creative roles—where women’s influence is assumed—men dominate the spotlight. A study conducted by the British Fashion Council (BFC) found that only 14% of creative directors across luxury brands in Europe and North America are held by women. Only 1% of these positions are held by individuals from minority backgrounds. Specifically, Black women in these roles lack representation, highlighting a need for further diversification.
This means that despite women being significant luxury fashion consumers, their voices are underrepresented at the creative leadership level.
Final thoughts: Fashion isn’t a job for women
The numbers don’t lie—fashion isn’t a job for women. At least, not at the top.
Italy’s fashion gender gap isn’t just persisting—it’s widening. A 1.2% drop in female board representation may seem small, but it’s symptomatic of a deeper problem: An industry built on women’s labour still refuses to give them power.
Why?
- At the grassroots level, women dominate the workforce (59.3%).
- In the boardroom, they’re reduced to a shrinking minority (25.8%).
The result? Fashion’s leadership remains a man’s world—even as women work behind every stitch.
Should quotas be enforced? And why do so many brands still equate creative genius or managerial ability with masculinity? Does the industry have a real cultural problem?
These numbers call for more than just discussion—they demand accountability. Will the industry finally listen?