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The Upscale Drive

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Revising the (over)production model


Ending the diffusion lines is one of the strategies recently adopted by fashion maisons. Why this change of direction? And is it the start of a new business model?

What is a diffusion line?

The diffusion lines, also named second lines, are ready-to-wear collections whose name is similar or somehow recalls the designer’s name. The inspiration and design of these clothing and accessory lines come from the maison archive. But they get simplified in terms of patterns, working, and materials to offer the spirit of the brand at a lower price. More affordable, or relatively so. However, much lower compared to the main lines.

Main lines dominate the high-end market segment, which means they are expensive. However, if brands remained solely in this high-end segment, they would miss out on the majority of the market.

So, driven by greed and speed, brands launched diffusion lines as an opportunity to expand the business and maximise profits. Specifically, diffusion lines were conceived and produced for the mass market.

Apart from some trailblazers like Armani, whose Emporio line was born in 1980, many diffusion lines started spreading in the 90s and mushroomed during 2000. For decades brands focused on evergrowing, ever-expanding, overproducing, and heavy discounting policies. So they triggered a vicious cycle that led to an oversaturated market deprived of value.
Now, things are changing. Some fashion maisons are stepping back, embarking on a new—or not so new—path.

The new strategy: quitting diffusion lines


Recently, Valentino announced the discontinuation of its Red Valentino line starting in 2024—a diffusion line launched in 2003—to shift its focus more toward couture. Likewise, Chloè is to phase out its See by Chloé line over the next three years, addressed as a – “natural and necessary evolution for the long term.”

So, in the short term, brands have maximised profit through secondary lines. But, in the long run, this strategy has compromised the market and their own image.

Now the market is almost dead, and this forced them to change their path.
If fashion maisons want to stay relevant in an oversaturated market, they need to do some cleaning. Ending the diffusion lines will allow brands a more focused business model.

Though we do not expect they will stop overproducing, we are curious to see what they will do next!

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Paris Fashion Week 22

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Fashion as a means of protest: how the industry can channel rebellion


Paris Fashion Week 22 has concluded, and even there, the heartbeats felt in the past weren’t beating that much. The atmosphere felt cooler, more restrained. Designing a collection during the pandemic for brands that have to grind a lot of money wasn’t the ideal ground. Furthermore, staging shows during a time of war wiped out fashion relevance.

For sure, the war in Ukraine made us wonder what’s the sense in what we do.

Fall/Winter 22 pret-a-porter


The purpose was to use every single voice, runway, or platform to protest. Even though we have to keep up with our work, we cannot stay silent in front of Ukraine’s tragedy. And so, we really appreciated all the designers who took a stand and raised their voices in support of Ukraine.

As in Milano, the ’90s were leading in Paris too: the white tank top, the slip dress, transparencies, crop-tops were everywhere. Also, Balenciagitis infected all designers in Paris too. In short, it was all about big shoulders.

Paris Fashion Week 22: some random tiny notes


Dior: a futuristic approach mixed with the past generated a far-fetched confusion.

Saint Laurant: this time is yes! Anthony Vaccarello made a very elegant collection respecting the maison’s heritage. The final tuxedos outfits were gorgeous!

Dries Van Noten: the video presentation looked like a commercial to launch his cosmetic line. Time to monetize!

Balmain: Olivier Rousteing is a good designer, but the show was too futuristic. Armours can protect you from haters but will never give you the elegance of a blazer.

Chloé: you can cook without salt, but the food has no taste. We saw some of the classics remixed with well-known marketing trends. However, the collection was insipid, and the beauty created by Natacha Ramsey-Levi vanished.

Uma Wang: a modern and beautiful collection shown through an impactful video.

Issey Miyake: one of the best digital presentations, “sow it and let it grow”, was the message. Indeed, the video was the story of growth and re-birth, which showed the cycle of nature through clothing.

Yohji Yamamoto: can you renovate while being faithful to your style? Only a master like him can do it, and his work is like poetry for fashion. The way he tailored denim was unique.

Image of Paris - tour Eiffel in support of Ukraine during Paris fashion Week 22


Boyarovskaya: impactful and chilling video. The Belarusian and Ukrainian duo sends a heartbreaking message.

Ann Demeulemeester: still white sneakers, for real? And weren’t all models wearing the same outfit again this season?

Balenciaga: Gvasalia’s background voice was chilling. His obsession for the East-European refugee outfits was clear so far, but his misshapen imagery never felt so real and angsty.

Valentino: PP Piccioli’s words, before the show, were everything: “we see you, we feel you”. A whole collection in PP Pink and some black. The message was strong, but the choice limited the beauty we used to see at Valentino shows. And the pre-show seemed like a commercial for Spiderman.

Vuitton: Ghesquière too got Balenciagitis! But we loved the tie outfits.

Chanel: a very wearable and balanced tweed story. No headshots.

Miu Miu: from preppy to biker style, call them winter outfits if you live in California! Panties peaking through the waistline recalled the first Dolce&Gabbana. Ok for the coats, jackets and column dresses. The rest, too mini, too cropped.

Paris Fashion Week 22: final thoughts


Unfortunately, the return of the runways signalled the re-awakening of the collateral circus. However, let’s debunk a myth:
Who said video presentations aren’t a valuable means to introduce a collection? Don’t say it again, please.

And above all, one point emerged: activism through fashion is a thoughtful way to bring back a sense of purpose in our work.

#STANDWITHUKRAINE

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