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A focus on brand identity at MFW FW25/26

3 March, 2025 / Leave a Comment

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Milano Fashion Week: codes above all else

Most luxury brands at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter25/26 placed a strong focus on brand identity—their unique DNA. In other words, they highlighted what defines them and sets them apart.

So, from Prada to Moschino, MM6, Marras, and Dolce & Gabbana, the emphasis on preserving a distinct identity emerged as the path to follow.

A few notes on MFW FW25/26: focus on brand identity

Antonio Marras: The designer has always remained true to his style. This season, he crafted a poetic narrative intertwined with the music of the past, drawing inspiration from the 1892 opera La Bella di Alghero. The result was a runway with a strong territorial identity. (Watch the show here).

MM6: The brand played with scale and proportions, shifting from small to oversized. This approach was particularly evident in their reinterpretation of iconic pieces like trench coats, jackets, dresses, and T-shirts. The collection felt more authentic to MM6’s essence—something we recognised, having loved and selected this concept for our boutique in the past. (Watch the show here).

Moschino: Creative director Adrian Appiolaza delved deep into the brand’s archives and stylistic codes, reviving the messages cherished by Franco Moschino. Foremost among them is a call to action on the climate crisis, alongside bold tailoring, deconstructed silhouettes, and surreal details. (Watch the show here).

Dolce & Gabbana: Models stepped out of the Metropol theatre and onto the streets, turning the show into a dynamic celebration. The “cool girls” aesthetic reinterpreted the brand’s classics with a sexy cargo twist, blending attitude with signature sensuality. (watch the show here).

Prada: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored the question, “What is femininity today?” and challenged conventional perceptions of beauty and gender identity. An approach we found particularly compelling, tracing an idea of style rich in contrasts. In the social media era, where people retreat into the illusion of perfection, Prada instead works to uglify the homogenising effect of a flattening culture—one that most people succumb to, numbed to the point of passivity, lacking even the impulse to escape or seek alternatives. (Watch the show here).

What can we learn from the FW25/26 Prada fashion show?

Contemporary femininity: A blend of vintage reimagined through a modern lens. Take a 1960s shift dress, make it oversized, and you get a fresh take on women’s style.
Freedom of movement: The collection is rich in oversized silhouettes, flowing gently over the body and allowing for natural movement.
Sizes are relative: Size no longer holds the same importance; it’s relative. In fact, what truly matters is how a dress flows on your body and how you choose to wear it—with a belt, a mannish shirt, or over a pair of jeans.

Final thoughts on MFW FW25/26

In conclusion, at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter 25/26, most luxury brands placed a strong emphasis on brand identity, with many creative directors diving into archives to honour their brand’s core DNA.

Ultimately, Prada’s exploration of contemporary femininity offered a vision of modern style. In a game of contrasts—between masculine and feminine—it all comes down to how you choose to wear your clothes. That, after all, is the essence of style: an invitation to freedom, clothes to explore rather than limit.

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FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week kicks off: Gucci’s new measure and Capasa’s optimism

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Between a vision for the future of fashion and the illusion of luxury?

The FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week opened with Gucci presenting its post-De Sarno collection, alongside a bold statement from Carlo Capasa, President of CNMI, on the state of luxury. What emerged was a striking contrast between the industry’s optimistic rhetoric and the stark realities of the market.

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: Gucci, a cautious reflection rooted in heritage

Set to an immersive soundtrack by Justin Hurwitz, performed live by an orchestra, and staged against a Castleton Green backdrop. So Gucci’s Fall Winter 25/26 collection marked a transitional moment for the brand. With no creative director at the helm, the collection avoided the excessive creative experimentation seen during Alessandro Michele’s tenure. In fact, he hijacked the brand steering it away from its core identity. Instead, this season offered a measured, archive-driven aesthetic, blending 60s to 90s influences into an elegant, modern image. The result was a clear luxury statement, showcasing the excellent work of a group of twenty young designers who took their bow at the end of the show. Bravo to the team!

Undoubtedly, this restrained approach feels like a deliberate response to the shifting luxury landscape. However, for luxury brands with such a rich history like Gucci, the path forward may well lie in balancing tradition with contemporary relevance—heritage, elegance, and archival inspiration with a modern twist.

Capasa’s statement: a questionable narrative

In contrast to Gucci’s cautious optimism, Carlo Capasa’s remarks struck a more contentious note. The CNMI president dismissed concerns about a luxury slowdown, framing it as a mere “readjustment.”

“Luxury is not suffering; it is readjusting.”

Capasa pointed to brands performing well globally as evidence of the industry’s resilience. Also, he expressed confidence in fashion’s ability to navigate complex moments. While his optimism is understandable—given his role as a promoter of the sector—it feels at odds with the broader market reality. Data suggests that luxury is indeed slowing down, with many brands facing significant uncertainty. The fact that a few brands are performing well—perhaps because they have the backing of substantial budgets—simply makes them exceptions. It does not negate the struggles faced by the majority.

The bigger picture: is luxury adapting or struggling?

As the FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week unfolds, the disconnect between the industry’s official narratives and market realities becomes increasingly apparent. Gucci’s calculated collection reflects a brand responding to economic shifts with caution. But is this “readjustment” a sign of resilience? Or a moment of reckoning for an industry in need of strategic reinvention?

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: opening highlights

Gucci’s FW25/26 show signals a potential return to its roots, prioritising heritage over experimentation. Perhaps this marks the end of the brand’s exploration of pointless pathways and a renewed focus on what it does best.

A final thought: Is the luxury industry truly in control of its destiny? Or is it merely reacting to the inevitable change? As the fashion world gathers in Milan, these questions linger, challenging the narratives of optimism and resilience that dominate the headlines.