fashion education

Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm

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Exploring fashion’s refusal to acknowledge reality


Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to ignore the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25


Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion


Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.

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Italian Sweatshop Problem: Is it an Italian Issue Only?

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Challenging the B.O.F. narrative around labour exploitation in fashion


Recently, The Business of Fashion (B.O.F.) raised a critical topic: the so-called “Italian sweatshop” problem within luxury brands. However, their statement suggested that this issue is uniquely Italian, framing it as a problem specific to the country. But is that really the case? Let’s dissect the nuances of this claim.

We’ve previously touched on the death of luxury – most notably in our post “Luxury is Dead”, where we discussed the April 2024 news of Giorgio Armani Operations being placed into receivership after allegations of labour exploitation. Just a few months later, in June, Dior found itself in court administration over similar accusations. These high-profile cases highlight a much broader issue that plagues the fashion industry: labour exploitation.

Fashion industry & the “Italian” sweatshop problem: is that really the case?


This problem is no secret. Exploitation is a widespread practice across the global fashion landscape, yet CEOs and corporate leadership often downplay it, pretending it’s an anomaly rather than a systemic issue. The focus on outsourcing production to far-off locations to maximise profits by replicating the fast-fashion model has been an intentional choice.

Also, a new challenge has emerged: international buyers, drawn to the quality and tradition of Italian craftsmanship, began demanding prices too low for authentic Made in Italy. As a result, to stay competitive, many manufacturers have turned to sweatshop practices to meet buyers’ growing demands.

International buyers (if they care) should ask themselves: is it realistic to purchase a Made in Italy handbag for around €40 wholesale?

So, when B.O.F. discusses the “Italian sweatshop problem,” we must ask: is this truly an Italian problem, or a global fashion issue? Yes, the investigation is Italian, but is Dior an Italian brand? Even if the manufacturer is Italian, where does the directive come from?

Conclusion


The conversation about labour exploitation in the fashion industry needs to break out of nationalistic confines. Most importantly, it needs to acknowledge that this is an industry-wide practice, regardless of the geographical location of the production.

In conclusion, focusing on Italy alone conveniently overlooks the real source of the problem: the profit-driven machinery of the entire fashion system. What’s being framed as an “Italian sweatshop” problem is, in fact, a reflection of how the fashion industry operates globally.

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

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MFW SS25: Educating Toward Individuality and the Freedom to Choose

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Challenging algorithmic conformity in a mass-market world


In a fashion landscape dominated by massification, how do people reclaim individuality and the freedom to choose? Is it even possible to cultivate such awareness in a world shaped by algorithms? In a world populated by lookalike, cookie-cutter figures that have no sense of personality?

Milan Fashion Week is underway. And Prada’s Spring-Summer 25 collection sought to address these questions, focusing its narrative on individuality and the power of choice. (Watch the show here).

Although we keep an eye on the Milano Fashion Week, our stance remains critical of the major brands and the fashion industry as a whole. While we believe in the need for change, the industry continues to mire itself in its status quo, seemingly unable – or unwilling – to break free from its current stagnation.

MFW SS25: Prada – fashion & algorithms


“We are submerged by images, and people are facing everything,” explained Miuccia Prada. “We are directed by algorithms. Anything we like, everything we know, it’s because other people are distilling it into us.” 

Is there an overdose of communication and flatness? Absolutely, yes! So, the collection was a deliberate disruption of uniformity: frizzy hair, chaotic outfits, and bold colour combinations came together in a visual challenge to the algorithmic flatness that saturates our screens. Yet, it’s somewhat ironic for brands to rail against algorithms when, without this digital magic, their global business operations might falter.

But let’s focus on the more inspiring message here: a call to educate people towards individuality and reclaim the freedom to choose. This theme resonates deeply with us and aligns with our own commitment to meaningful fashion. A field rooted in timeless design and superior quality, far removed from the disposable nature of fast fashion. Also far away from luxury brands that have no trace of luxury.

Now, can we recover a world of emotions, uniqueness, and true beauty? It starts by embracing authenticity, valuing human imperfections, and moving away from mass-produced conformity. By celebrating individual creativity and encouraging personal expression, we foster a world that honors the depth of emotions and the beauty found in diversity. This recovery involves slowing down, appreciating craftsmanship, and reconnecting with the meaningful aspects of life that make each of us unique. Will this message spread?

Conclusion


In short, the concept of Prada’s show struck a chord. So it prompted us to share it with you in the hope that more will join the movement toward rejecting algorithmic influence and its cookie-cutter masses. In favour of seeking out individuality, quality, and good design.

But can a brand alone awaken such an understanding in consumers? Or will people simply buy these runway looks because of the logo behind them? Ultimately, will Prada continue to rely on algorithms to decide what’s next and promote its garments?

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

Let’s start a conversation! 

#formodernhumans

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Fashion Reshuffling: The Game of Musical Chairs and its Impact on Consumers

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An industry lost in translation, struggling to grasp the change


These days, we are witnessing a fashion reshuffling, a game of musical chairs that mirrors the unserious behaviour of politics. Indeed, by hopping from chair to chair, trying not to lose visibility or power, fashion imitates politics.


The turbulence of fashion creative directors’ reshuffling


Recent news reports that Peter Hawkings is stepping down from his role at Tom Ford, Galliano will exit Margiela next autumn, and Virginie Viard has just left Chanel. Where are they headed next? Here and there, come and go. The industry is abuzz with speculation. In fashion, as in politics, enjoy the game!

This excessive mixing has significant effects: brands lose consistency, and consumer trust erodes. In fact, the original design codes and unique DNA that identified each Maison become blurred, making the brands look all the same. But egos are bigger than ever in the fashion industry. And so, keeping the chair – whatever it is – is the ultimate goal for designers.

Entering the era of creative directors frequent changes


It seems we are entering an era of frequent changes in fashion Maisons. This constant reshuffling and the game of musical chairs is becoming the norm. While a designer moving to a new brand might result in a short-term revenue boost, in the long run, brands lose consistency and integrity, risking their image. But for many designers, this game is the lifeblood of their egos.

However, the market for luxury goods is slowing down. Even strong brands and corporations struggle mainly because of the declining demand from Chinese and US clients. Additionally, a probe has linked brands such as Armani and Dior to sweatshops. Of course, they are not the only ones exploiting labour. Sadly, the practice is familiar to modern corporations. So talking about who goes where is the easiest way to avoid discussing these fundamental issues.

In light of this, we wonder: can the CEOs feel the deep change occurring in the fashion industry? Can they sense the earthquake shaking the foundation of a fashion system that has lost its way? Is it possible that consumers are realising luxury is no longer what it once was?

Conclusion


In conclusion, to combat the industry’s slowdown, fashion houses are increasingly relying on the vision of creative directors, leading to frequent rotations at the helm of major Maisons. However, this fashion reshuffling addresses only a symptom of a much deeper issue: the loss of luxury’s true essence and the collapse of an outdated and inflexible system. Ultimately, can the industry believe that this game of musical chairs will resurrect the fortunes of its once-glorious past?

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Fashion Devastation and Mindless Shopping

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Another example of people’s inaction in hunting for cheap clothing


Last week, we witnessed yet another TV program highlighting the immense devastation caused by the fashion industry and mindless shopping. This time, the focus was specifically on the fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion segments, although the issue pertains to the fashion system as a whole.

The program “Newsroom,” titled “Buy, Wear, and Toss,” covered aspects we’ve discussed repeatedly. Indeed, there was nothing new.

“Every year, 150 billion new pieces of clothing are produced worldwide, sold at rock-bottom prices, and of increasingly poor quality. They are worn only a few times, then end up at the back of the closet and are never used again. But what happens when we get rid of them? Where do all these clothes end up? The episode follows their long journeys to Ghana – where they pollute the beaches and the ocean – and the Atacama Desert in Chile, magnificent places that have become immense open-air dumps. Behind every t-shirt sold for a few euros, there is not only pollution but also the exploitation of low-cost labour and a huge business on which organised crime has also set its sights.”

Fashion devastation means overproduction, overconsumption, waste, pollution, exploited workers and modern-day slavery. We have explored these topics in detail in previous posts:

The land of waste
From fast to ultra-fast: a cultural regression
Fashion waste visible from space
Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour


Conclusion


These are just a few examples, as we frequently share news, information, and thoughts on these crucial matters. Indeed, discussing style without setting priorities would be naive and utterly pointless.

In the end, no piece of clothing that costs just a few euros comes without the exploitation of a worker. However, one image powerfully captured the fashion devastation and mindless shopping: a man standing on heaps of garbage, mountains of clothing piling up, holding a tag from a certified green company. Sad irony! The consequences of mindless shopping in the Global North significantly impact the Global South. That conveys a clear idea of how fake the façade of sustainability in the fashion industry is.

While we are glad to see these issues gaining attention, as we have explored over the past five years of blogging, we feel a sense of bitterness in realising that nothing ever changes.

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