fashion education

The Language Of Design

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Milano Design Week 23: between fashion and design


Milano Design Week offers the opportunity to reflect on the language of design, though we hope it won’t be another chance to spread more sustainability fluff. By the way, Milano seems to be involved in design more than fashion. In fact, the town is full of events, and the atmosphere is lively and engaging.

Design: clothing & objects


The clothes and objects we use daily form a language–the language of design. As a result, fashion reflects contemporary culture and tells our story. In other words, fashion is culture. And so is design, of course.
But while design maintained a high-level positioning, fashion has lost its allure. From top brands to fast fashion, the industry identifies with a disposable culture or transient trends that lead to compulsive consumption. Now, the image of fashion is cheap, and the industry itself has undermined it. So, the mixture with design adds that patina of class, enhancing fashion portrayal.

However, the modern language of design is all about sustainability. Yet, we’re bombarded with catchphrases that are nothing more than empty claims. These buzzwords serve one purpose: marketing, driving more sales. And since sustainability is a hot topic, many jump on the bandwagon simply to tap into a wider audience.

Back to the core: the language of design


Now back to the core: the language of design. What matters to us? Good design with an ethical approach. Certainly, people should be active thinkers and not just consumers. But designers also have a responibility: to create original pieces, artisanal rather than standardised mass products. Good design means thoughtful consideration of the materials, craftsmanship, production chain, and the people involved–while understanding the impact on the planet. It means caring about the entire creative and productive process.

Sustainable design, recycling, and upcycling–as part of a circular economy, are designer’s work. So, do that!

In the end, the dialogue between fashion and design implies shared values. But the outcome of this reciprocal contamination must bring a tangible change, not empty slogans. The planet needs action!

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AI Is The Trend: Does It Feel Real?

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When human creativity meets artificial intelligence


Humans, AI is the trend! Indeed, artificial intelligence is taking over the fashion industry, as any other area. But the conversation is all about highlighting how advanced and marvellous it is. Very few consider the possible risks.

And while we are here, waiting to receive the spring-summer orders and be inspired by tangible, real fashion stuff, which we will show you soon, we cannot avoid this trending topic. Indeed, some “artificial creativity” surprised us.

AI: what is it?


Artificial intelligence is a machine’s ability to display human capabilities such as reasoning, learning, planning and creativity. Specifically, the computer receives the data, processes it and responds–as in the case of ChatGPT. AI is crucial for digital transformation and certainly will bring great changes.

Though the perspective of losing the human touch is quite scary, everyone seems to prioritise the positive aspects. Of course, the fields of application are countless, and many of them are not even understandable now. Perhaps in the next future, we’ll reach a point where humans aren’t needed anymore. In fact, you can write blog posts, books, songs or even pass an exam with AI. As a result, many jobs currently performed by humans may disappear.

AI generated content in the fashion industry


Practical applications in the fashion field could be for customer service, stock management or market research. But we have seen beautiful fashion editorials made with ChatGPT. For instance, take a look at the fashion concepts created by Gianluca Traina, an Italian talented artist and fashion designer, with the help of ChatGPT: a collection and a complete fashion editorial inspired to the architecture of Samarkand.

SAMARKAND – Women’s clothing collection by Gianluca Traina

And here’s the men’s clothing collection:


Look at the colours! And the silhouettes! Gianluca Traina’s work is impressive, thought-provoking. In fact, it makes you question everything. Now seriously, do we still need fashion magazines made by professionals? Say hello to fashion editors, photographers, stylists, make-up artists, models, and so on… Well, shut down everything and say hello to humans!

But wait, will AI purchase products, too? Since that is the fashion industry’s biggest issue. And who will have the money to buy fashion items if people will not work anymore?  

Among all the conversation around AI, Nick Cave came up with great insight, a human perspective indeed! A fan asked ChatGPT to write a song in the style of Nick Cave and then requested Cave’s feedback.
His reply, from “The Red Hand Files”, is this:

“Mark, thanks for the song, but with all the love and respect in the world, this song is bullshit, a grotesque mockery of what it is to be human, and, well, I don’t much like it — although, hang on! rereading it, there is a line in there that speaks to me —

‘I’ve got the fire of hell in my eyes’ 

— says the song ‘in the style of Nick Cave’, and that’s kind of true. I have got the fire of hell in my eyes – and it’s ChatGPT.

Love, Nick”

The Red Hand Files – Nick Cave

Will AI replace humans?


In conclusion, AI is undoubtedly the trend, and progress is unstoppable. However, despite our limits and flaws, we remain creative humans. And our creativity is essential for progress. But most importantly, creativity without the heartbeat is nothing.

And you, have you got the fire of hell in your eyes? Love it or hate it?

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Vogue Philippines: The Beauty Of Humanity

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A brave cover story of representation fighting the myth of youth


With its April 2023 issue, Vogue Philippines celebrates the beauty of humanity. Lately, fashion doesn’t provide such a momentum of passionate engagement and genuine enthusiasm. Yet finally, we can say: this is a cover story!

Indeed, this cover goes beyond fashion. Not only is it a story of representation, but also it is a powerful challenge to modern beauty standards and the cult of youth.

A centenarian is the cover story of Vogue Philippines


Vogue Philippines’ April issue made history by featuring the oldest person ever on a cover. The woman, Apo Whang-Od–also known as Maria Oggay, is a 106-year-old tattoo artist from the Philippines. Specifically, she comes from the village of Buscalan – from the Kalinga tribe. And she is considered the oldest mambabatok. Batok is the traditional indigenous tattooing whose symbols signify strength, bravery and beauty. (Read her story here)

Vogue Philippines: the beauty of humanity
Credit: Vogue Philippines

“We believe that the concept of beauty needs to evolve, and include diverse and inclusive faces and forms. What we hope to speak about is the beauty of humanity” said Bea Valdes – Vogue Philippines editor-in-chief.

In our modern society, people are subjugated by the myth of youth, so ageing is considered a curse, something to fight as much as possible. In fact, most people invest in plastic surgery or less invasive techniques to keep their “forever young” illusion alive. But the results are quite sad.

However, this issue doesn’t relate to the fashion and beauty industries only. It’s a matter of culture. Because of patriarchy, men are allowed to age while women are not. Though men, too, enjoy plastic surgery a lot, there is a different attititude towards men’s and women’s ageing. With age, men become interesting while women just get old.
Moreover, women struggle to fit into beauty standards because that’s what men expect from them: plastic dolls in tight-fitting clothes. In fact, women accept the idea of how a woman should look based on a male perspective. And they do not even question it! Which means they are easy to manipulate.

The beauty of humanity: more than a cover of a fashion magazine


We wholeheartedly embrace Vogue Philippines’ choice. This is more than just a cover for a fashion magazine; it’s a game-changer. It tells a story of representation, as Whang-Od is one of the last practitioners of Batok tattooing. But it’s also an ode to defying ageism. This woman embodies powerful elegance. She is strong yet soulful, proud yet delicate. She is a piercing beauty!

And that is what we need to challenge modern beauty standards and embrace our life in all its stages.

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The Retail Impasse

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Fashion business: therapeutic obstinacy for an almost-dead patient


The retail impasse and the problems emerging in fashion these days revolve around two main topics: late deliveries and markdown strategies. 

However, both issues are indicators of a fashion system that is basically dead, yet everyone pretends not to see it. Or they refuse to accept it. So every operator in the field is on a kind of therapeutic obstinacy for a patient that is almost gone. And which, by the way, has a huge impact on the planet.

Two main points of the retail impasse


One: many stores have received a small percentage of the Spring-Summer pieces, which makes it complicated to assemble outfits. Why does this happen? Top brands monopolise good manufacturers. So smaller brands get materials late (for the same reason) and consequently are left as the last link of the chain. Therefore, they cannot deliver on time.

Two: markdown strategies and how to get rid of the stock in excess that stores keep purchasing. Even though retailers are perfectly aware that the number of people entering a store isn’t the same as in the pre-pandemic time, they don’t stop overstocking. As a result, selling discounted items becomes more complicated. In fact, these discounts are available online and offline throughout the year, making markdowns less attractive. Furthermore, a discount is no longer the sole reason people purchase a product

In short, this excessive stock policy is harmful to the planet and business. So, we must change it.

Can we find solutions to revive the fashion business?


Solutions must experiment with new ways of operating within the fashion business.

First: a dramatic reduction in consumption. Let’s face reality: if we do not consume less, much less, we can forget to have a future. So, there’s no point in procrastinating the change.

Second: a shift to artisanal garments and made-to-order clothes and accessories, having the chance to reorder during the season. It’s about choosing tailoring over mass-produced garments, quality over quantity.

In conclusion, if we want to overcome the retail impasse, overtreating fashion with more overproduction will take us nowhere. We need a completely different strategy: it’s a matter of reducing the number of pieces while providing a higher value.

Less but better.

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Fashion Waste Recycling

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An urgent issue every fashion designer must confront


March 18th was Global Recycling Day, highlighting the challenge of waste recycling, which is deeply connected to the fashion industry. As a matter of fact, recycling is crucial for a circular economy and circular fashion too.

These international days aim to raise awareness on important matters. Unfortunately, we celebrate something but tend to forget the issue the day after.

Fashion industry & waste


As widely highlighted in our previous posts, the fashion industry is part of the waste problem. According to Earth.org, of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tons end up in landfills. To give a prompt idea, this means that the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up in landfill sites every second.

Waste colonialism


Waste is a global issue. In fact, that is the byproduct of our economic system–capitalism. A structure based on overproduction and exploitation. However, the civilized global North has found a way to avoid facing it. We don’t want to see our garbage. And when confronted with problems, we prefer to ignore it.
So, how does the global north get rid of waste? By dumping the problem in the global south. In case you missed the news, please, read what happens in the Atacama desert in Chile. Or in Ghana, Africa.
As we can see, Northern countries, the rich and civilised ones, continue to perpetuate colonialism. Specifically, waste colonialism.

Recycling waste


“Global Recycling Foundation” promotes the idea of considering waste as an opportunity:

“Every year, the Earth yields billions of tons of natural resources and at some point, in the not too distant future, it will run out.
That’s why we must think again about what we throw away – seeing not waste, but opportunity.”

Waste recycling in fashion industry


First, in order to reduce waste, we need to consume less, much less! But also, we must find solutions for the tons of discarded clothing already shipped to Africa and Chile.

Most importantly, we expect every fashion designer and every company to do their bit and hold themselves accountable. Recycling and upcycling must become part of the plan for the fashion industry. Now.

There’s no time to waste!

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