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Who Said Women in Men’s Clothes Aren’t Feminine?

Saint Laurent SS25 Paris Fashion Show: Style, Gender, Patriarchy and Feminism

Who said women in men’s clothes aren’t feminine? We find it puzzling that there remains one dominant, traditional, patriarchal, and commercial idea of how women should look. Despite designers over the years presenting broader visions, one specific image continues to dominate.

Yesterday, we had the chance to view the Spring-Summer 25 Saint Laurent fashion show at Paris Fashion Week (watch it here). With a certain pleasure, we noticed how, unlike former designers who removed Yves from the brand name, Anthony Vaccarello revisited the original designer and creator of the brand. Specifically, he brought Mr. Yves Saint Laurent back onto the runway. So, elongated, refined figures walked down the runway in oversized suits that evoked the iconic designer himself. And it was remarkable.

This collection challenged the rigid idea of femininity that women themselves often can’t escape. So we ask again: who said women in men’s clothes aren’t feminine? It’s precisely the opposite – and it’s nothing new.

Yves Saint Laurent – 1967: First Pantsuit

“A year after the tuxedo, Yves Saint Laurent proposed his first pantsuit in his Spring-Summer 1967 collection. It was an unusual design for a suit, which was traditionally worn with a skirt. Just as he did for the tuxedo, Saint Laurent adapted the traditionally masculine suit for the female body. The sleeves were fitted and the waist belted, while the wide pants were flattering for the legs. He added typically female accessories, such as heels and jewelry, but still had his model wear a necktie and felt hat.” (source)

Fast-forward to 2025: Anthony Vaccarello pays homage to the original vision of Mr. Saint Laurent, reviving a look that challenged gender norms in its time and still does today.

In fact, this concept expresses a powerful challenge to traditional notions of gender in fashion. It demonstrates that femininity is not defined by wearing clothes traditionally associated with women. A woman can embody femininity while wearing what is considered “masculine” garments – and look incredibly refined doing so.

This shift reflects a broader cultural movement. Designers, fashion icons, and feminists have long argued that fashion should not be confined by gender. Figures like Coco Chanel, who popularised trousers for women, and Yves Saint Laurent, who introduced the women’s tuxedo (Le Smoking), played pivotal roles in reshaping this narrative.

What happened next?

So, from a cultural perspective, what happened after Chanel? What happened after Yves Saint Laurent? And what happened to feminism? If designers like Saint Laurent showed us that femininity transcends garments, why does contemporary feminism seem to lean more toward the image of Marilyn Monroe rather than the elegance of Saint Laurent? Why has this nuanced view of style and gender been overshadowed by more commercialised, sexualized aesthetics?

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MFW SS25: Educating Toward Individuality and the Freedom to Choose

20 September, 2024 / Leave a Comment

Challenging Algorithmic Conformity in a Mass-Market World

In a fashion landscape dominated by massification, how do people reclaim individuality and the freedom to choose? Is it even possible to cultivate such awareness in a world shaped by algorithms? In a world populated by lookalike, cookie-cutter figures that have no sense of personality?

Milan Fashion Week is underway. And Prada’s Spring-Summer 25 collection sought to address these questions, focusing its narrative on individuality and the power of choice. (Watch the show here).

Although we keep an eye on the Milano Fashion Week, our stance remains critical of the major brands and the fashion industry as a whole. While we believe in the need for change, the industry continues to mire itself in its status quo, seemingly unable – or unwilling – to break free from its current stagnation.

MFW SS25: Prada – fashion & algorithms

“We are submerged by images, and people are facing everything,” explained Miuccia Prada. “We are directed by algorithms. Anything we like, everything we know, it’s because other people are distilling it into us.”

Is there an overdose of communication and flatness? Absolutely, yes! So, the collection was a deliberate disruption of uniformity: frizzy hair, chaotic outfits, and bold colour combinations came together in a visual challenge to the algorithmic flatness that saturates our screens. Yet, it’s somewhat ironic for brands to rail against algorithms when, without this digital magic, their global business operations might falter.

But let’s focus on the more inspiring message here: a call to educate people towards individuality and reclaim the freedom to choose. This theme resonates deeply with us and aligns with our own commitment to meaningful fashion. A field rooted in timeless design and superior quality, far removed from the disposable nature of fast fashion. Also far away from luxury brands that have no trace of luxury.

Now, can we recover a world of emotions, uniqueness, and true beauty? It starts by embracing authenticity, valuing human imperfections, and moving away from mass-produced conformity. By celebrating individual creativity and encouraging personal expression, we foster a world that honors the depth of emotions and the beauty found in diversity. This recovery involves slowing down, appreciating craftsmanship, and reconnecting with the meaningful aspects of life that make each of us unique. Will this message spread?

Conclusion

In short, the concept of Prada’s show struck a chord. So it prompted us to share it with you in the hope that more will join the movement toward rejecting algorithmic influence and its cookie-cutter masses. In favour of seeking out individuality, quality, and good design.

But can a brand alone awaken such an understanding in consumers? Or will people simply buy these runway looks because of the logo behind them? Ultimately, will Prada continue to rely on algorithms to decide what’s next and promote its garments?

Let’s start a conversation!

#formodernhumans

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