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Exploring Fashion’s Refusal to Acknowledge Reality

Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to turn a blind eye to the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25

Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion

Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.

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