Takeaways from Men’s Fashion

Decoding Fall/Winter 24 Menswear & Gender Neutrality

Here are our takeaways from Men’s Fashion Week in Milano and Paris. Let’s decipher the latest shows and presentations in the evolving landscape of men’s fashion and genderless designs.

No age boundaries with mixed-age models

Finally, the myth of eternal youth and perfection is questioned, and the idea of making fashion accessible to all ages conquers the runways. In fact, those who appreciate concepts like quality or tailoring aren’t typically young people. While the youth are too immersed in showcasing brands, some middle-aged individuals with unique styles value niche fashion over a big logo. Addressing independent thinkers directly through fashion shows gets straight to the point.

White for winter

Trousers, blazers, coats, knitwear or shirts in candid, pure, soothing white. Not only in wool but also in cotton. A kind of spiritual take. Specifically, the juxtaposition of white cotton garments with wool blazers emerged as a modern and effortlessly cool style. Although we know it’s not easy to sell, we adore it.

Punk fusion

Punk aesthetics took centre stage with elements such as zippers, leather garments, checks, stripes, and shoes featuring chunky soles. The revival of punk style, when blended with tailored clothes, creates a sublime and edgy fusion. It seems like punk never dies!

Genderless fashion & fluid identities

Silhouettes and styles are undeniably more fluid; identities on the runways are less defined. Moreover, men’s and women’s designs coexisted seamlessly in the same shows. The sense of sharing clothes is ingrained in our DNA, and we appreciate this style. However, despite embracing genderless fashion, the question arises: why maintain separate men’s and women’s fashion weeks? The potential for unification, discussed during the challenges posed by Covid-19, seems to have dissipated. Some, like Sacai, clarified their stance by naming the show: “Men’s Autumn/Winter 24 & Women’s Autumn 24.” But what’s the point of a double women’s show for an industry that strives for sustainability? Clearly, the industry’s commitment to sustainability remains inconsistent.


In conclusion, in light of our takeaways from Men’s Fashion, it is clear that the industry is grappling with a paradox: actions don’t align with principles. In fact, the industry talks about timeless fashion while being a sales-driven system. Promotes genderless fashion but maintains separate shows. Ultimately, it discusses sustainability but cannot stop revealing its inconsistency. To move forward, the fashion industry needs a more coherent and progressive approach.

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A Shift Towards De-influencing Fashion

Men’s Milano Fashion Week: A New Direction?

In a notable turn of events, Men’s Milano Fashion Week has revealed a shift towards de-influencing fashion.

During the three-day event, we noticed a decrease in the prominence of social media influencers. This shift appeared to be an attempt to redefine the role of fashion influencers, suggesting a potential change in the industry’s dynamics.

Yet the “pandoro gate,” which involved Chiara Ferragni (read more here), appears to have prompted a reconsideration of brand strategies. So far, whether brands liked influencers or not, they felt compelled to invite them. Now, something has changed.

Distinguishing two influencer categories

Examining the influencer landscape reveals two categories:
1- traditional celebrities who attain fame through acting, music, or wealth (they are just rich, so they automatically ascend to that state).
2- social media celebrities who build their public personas through continuous self-representation. They employ tactics to grow their audience, such as the unnerving follow/unfollow, bots or purchasing followers (even fake accounts).

Historically, the fashion industry maintained ties with conventional celebrities, although navigating their involvement with different rules. However, brands seeking cost-effective alternatives to traditional endorsements contributed to the rise of influencers – social media celebrities. Most importantly, this phenomenon transformed fashion into a carnival show and, in some instances, portrayed it as a vocation for those without substantial merit.

A shift in focus at Men’s Milano Fashion Week

The recent Men’s Milano Fashion Week has showcased a departure from the influencer-dominated scene. Shows like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana shifted the spotlight to traditional celebrities – actors, musicians, and rich kids – sidelining the ubiquitous Instagram influencers. No Instagram fluff!

While the “pandoro gate” may have played a role in brands reassessing their associations, it is evident that the symbiotic relationship with social media influencers is undergoing scrutiny. Brands, once content to profit alongside the “insta-fluff” phenomenon, now appear more discerning.

We have always been curious about why people buy products based on influencer recommendations, knowing they get paid to promote these products. Essentially, people contribute to fund their luxurious lifestyles by purchasing sponsored products. Just why? Aren’t they capable of independent thinking?

De-influencing fashion: the impact on audience dynamics

The strategic decision to feature traditional celebrities over showy influencers at Men’s Milano Fashion Week revealed a perceptible transformation in the event’s ambience. The shift towards established figures lent an air of sophistication to the audience, aiming to elevate the overall atmosphere. Also, it paved the way for a revitalised focus on the garments themselves.

With the spotlight redirected from ostentatious personalities to the garments, the runway presentations assumed a more cultured and nuanced tone.

A deliberate departure from the influencer-centric narrative would contribute to reviving an appreciation for the sartorial value and creativity that often take a backseat amid the fluff of social media-driven communication.

But is this shift towards de-influencing fashion a calculated, long-term strategy or a momentary pivot? Will it extend to Women’s Fashion Week?

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