identity

PFW FW25: What heritage brands teach us about identity and timelessness

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How heritage brands stay relevant without radical reinvention


As Paris Fashion Week FW25 comes to a close, we reflect on what heritage brands reveal about identity and timelessness.

One of the most striking aspects of this season was the renewed sense of identity—a quality that had been diluted in recent years, causing brands to lose what once set them apart. Now, more than ever, brands seem to require flexible, inspired approaches rather than rigid strategies or merely marketing-driven narratives.

Equally noteworthy was the restrained nature of many shows, with a noticeable reduction in unnecessary excess. While this could suggest a shift towards more mindful practices, it reflects financial caution in uncertain times rather than a commitment to sustainability. Indeed, sustainability appeared to have lost its place as a key marketing tool.

Heritage brands: Let’s talk style, not just designers


Chanel remained unmistakably Chanel, proving that heritage brands can thrive with a strong design team. Despite the absence of a creative director, the collection was impeccably conceived, weaving in the signature themes so dear to Madame Coco. (Watch the show here). For heritage houses, perhaps the real question is: should the focus be on the designer at the helm, or on the enduring style and craftsmanship?
That said, it will be interesting to see what Mathieu Blazy’s vision brings next spring.

Miu Miu, on the other hand, was quintessentially Miuccia. Feminine yet subversive, the collection channelled 1950s elegance with a rebellious edge—pointed bras, handbags carried in the crook of the arm, vintage-inspired accessories, and bold gold jewellery pieces. What could be more authentic than Miuccia Prada staying true to her vision for Miu Miu? Feminine, chic, and unmistakably hers—a strong, clear signature. (Watch the show here). However, we want to believe the furs are faux.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, heritage brands have shown that timelessness is not about radical reinvention but about staying true to a distinct identity. Chanel demonstrated that strong design can uphold a brand’s legacy, even without a star creative director, while Miu Miu reaffirmed the power of a designer with a clear, unwavering vision.

Perhaps this season signals a shift—not towards relentless reinvention, but towards refinement, consistency, and a deeper understanding of what makes a brand unique. In a landscape often dominated by marketing gimmicks, fashion may be rediscovering the value of authenticity.

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The Link Between Freedom and Style

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Expressing identity through fashion


Style is a powerful means of expressing one’s freedom. Take, for instance, the latest phase of Jane Birkin’s style, meaning the Doillon phase, when she intentionally stopped being the sexy doll. Her effortless looks have become synonymous with women’s empowerment and liberation. Through her iconic fashion choices, she demonstrated how personal style can transcend societal norms and convey individuality and confidence. Whether a pair of oversized jeans or a mannish blazer, Birkin’s fashion sense speaks volumes about her unique identity and spirit.

“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” – said Coco Chanel.

Through fashion and personal style, individuals can convey their unique identities, preferences, and emotions without the need for words. From the brands we buy – which, by doing so, we endorse and champion their values – to our consumption habits and preferences, the way we dress speaks volumes about us.

Style, self-expression and freedom


In fact, style functions as a form of self-expression and freedom. But how does this happen? Here are a few ways:

  1. Individuality: Style allows people to showcase their unique tastes and personalities. Choosing what to wear and how to wear, it reflects personal choices and independence from societal norms.

  2. Cultural Identity: Through clothing and accessories, individuals can celebrate their heritage and cultural backgrounds. Traditional garments and modern interpretations of cultural attire are both powerful expressions of cultural pride and freedom.

  3. Creative Expression: Fashion is an art form. Mixing and matching different pieces, experimenting with colours, patterns, and textures. But even DIY modifications of clothes are ways to unleash creativity and break free from conventional fashion rules.

  4. Mood and Emotion: What you wear can reflect or influence your mood. Bright colours might express joy or energy, while darker tones could reflect a more subdued or contemplative state. Style is a dynamic way to communicate feelings.

  5. Rebellion and Resistance: Throughout history, fashion has been used to challenge the status quo and make political statements. For example, during the 1960s and 1970s, the punk movement emerged as a rebellious counter-culture, with its fashion characterised by ripped clothing, safety pins, and provocative slogans. This style was a direct challenge to mainstream aesthetics and a form of resistance against social and political norms. Similarly, the black beret and leather jacket became symbols of the Black Panther Party, representing their fight for civil rights and social justice.

  6. Empowerment: Dressing in a way that makes one feel confident and comfortable is empowering. It’s a declaration of self-acceptance and confidence, free from the need to conform to others’ expectations. For instance, the 1980s saw the rise of power dressing among women, characterised by tailored suits with padded shoulders. Power dressing helped women assert their authority and competence in male-dominated environments, making a strong statement about gender equality and self-empowerment.

Style, the essence of fashion


In essence, style is a multifaceted tool of personal expression and a celebration of freedom. It allows individuals to showcase their individuality, celebrate cultural identity, unleash creativity, reflect moods and emotions, challenge societal norms, and feel empowered. Each choice in fashion tells a unique story, making personal style a powerful means of communication.

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Reaffirming the Cultural Narrative of Fashion

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Exploring the threads of identity, style, and societal evolution


Reaffirming the cultural narrative of fashion helps in understanding its true essence and value, which goes way beyond the social media-generated fluff. In fact, that is not the style we like.

Fashion is culture, the culture of our times.
In other words, fashion serves as a reflection of culture – contemporary culture or any given one – offering insights into societal norms, values, and behaviours. From the style people wear, we can perceive women’s freedom or to what degree patriarchy rules. 

Identity, style, and societal evolution: the cultural narrative beyond fashion


The way we dress speaks volumes about us. From the brands we buy – which, by doing so, we endorse, championing their values; to our consumption habits and preferences. It encompasses our quest for specific fabrics, our discernment of quality and materials. And even extends to the lifespan of our purchases; the amount of waste we discard;  our regard for both the labour of others and the well-being of our planet. So, through the style people wear, it is possible to read their identities and values. 

The work of a designer, creating and putting out more stuff in our contemporary context, is particularly challenging. Their task is not talking sustainability but creating an exceptional design, beautiful pieces made to last and worth buying. Good design #formodernhumans intrinsically means for brands to make garments in respect of people and the planet. Less noise, more facts. And the proof of their intentions is that they are willing to make clothes in small batches. Quality, not quantity.

Reaffirming the cultural narrative of fashion aims to highlight that fashion is not merely about clothing but also about the deeper cultural currents shaping our world. 

All these details and information can tell us who we are and where we are heading as a society.
Fashion is culture, the culture of our times.

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