fashioncriticism

Paris Fashion Week SS25 Highlights the Death of Fashion Criticism

At Paris Fashion Week SS25, we saw the emergence of constructed silhouettes and a renewed desire for more dressy styles; a longing to dress up once again. However, the most striking observation is designers repeating themselves. That coincides with the disappearance of what once was true fashion criticism.

In his critique of Milan Fashion Week, Tim Blanks of B.O.F. highlighted a lack of identity among Italian brands. So, what should we say about Paris Fashion Week? Aside from a few exceptions, like Chloé, Saint Laurent, Yohji Yamamoto, Chanel or Miu Miu — who delivered shows deeply rooted in their brand’s identity and heritage — most others could have been anyone.

Fashion criticism and designers repeating themselves

We’ve seen high praise for Alessandro Michele’s work at Valentino, which is surprising given that his approach seems merely centred on his own aesthetic. It’s as if he’s saying, ‘I love flea market style, and that’s what I bring wherever I go.’ Hasn’t he replicated what he did at Gucci? The only difference is the brand name. But just as one swallow doesn’t make a summer, a bow or a frill doesn’t make Valentino. So, it’s puzzling to read such glowing reviews from journalists when social media reactions have been far less favourable. Many users have called it a Gucci replica, with comments like ‘he destroyed one brand, now he’s doing the same to Valentino,’ and ‘he doesn’t realise people are tired of this.’ Others suggest, ‘he should launch his own brand.’ We’ve explained why he won’t in a previous discussion. Here’s an excerpt:

But why don’t these creative directors launch their namesake brands? They avoid it because out of that box, they lose their relevance. Their skills rely on immense archives and huge investments. They excel at styling and marketing, but the creativity of a fashion designer is a different matter. Their ego overpowers.

Indeed, the journalists’ comments couldn’t be more disconnected from those on social media.

The death of fashion criticism

So yes, we agree with Tim Blanks that brands lack identity. But someone must inform him that this issue isn’t exclusive to Milan. Top brands that have lost their original designers have completely lost their identity as well. They’re now focused solely on making money, and it’s hard to tell one from the other. Boundaries have blurred, and this is one of the reasons why fashion has lost its appeal.

However, we disagree with Tim Blanks and other journalists who praise designers who keep repeating themselves wherever they go. It seems they’re doing it just to secure their front-row invitations.

Fashion hasn’t just lost its identity. Also, it has lost its sense of critique. One style, one pattern, one mindset. No room for dissent.

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