Customer criticism

/ Leave a Comment

Niche fashion selection and clients’ expectations

As a fashion boutique, throughout our almost 18 years of independent activity, we’ve been open to feedback and customer criticism. Although we do our work conscientiously, there is always room for improvement.

Since we started this new path trying to bring forward our vision of fashion within the means of our planet, limiting as much as possible our impact, we went straight to the essential. Which means cleaning up a lot and reducing our selection to worthy garments only. In fact, we don’t need more. We need less, much less, but better quality.

So, it became even more important to listen to different viewpoints. Feedbacks and constructive criticism are always welcome.

Customer criticism on a limited selection

But sometimes, criticism revolves around the number of items selected. For instance: “Don’t always show that bag, otherwise people may think you have only a few items.” – said a client commenting on an Instagram post. Of course, it means she expected to see a broader selection.

“That’s right” – we replied. It was an intentional choice. In fact, we aren’t a fashion supermarket. We love hunting niche fashion pieces which are not for all. Most importantly, we think the fashion industry needs to change, and so does the way people consume clothing and not only that. It’s a matter of lifestyle and consumption habits in general. Our planet is melting, and we cannot afford fake marketing claims. We need immediate action.

Niche fashion #formodernhumans

A niche fashion selection might not be for you. But how can we stop promoting overconsumption if we still select endless choices of clothing and accessories? It would be impossible. Though niche fashion is not for everyone, more is not the answer. However, that comment made us understand that not everyone is open to change. As they do not see any problem. And do not even understand good design. So our selection might not be for them.

How do we respond to customer criticism about our precise selection and a limited number of items?

Rather than tons of garbage fashion or tasteless sustainable products, we need real fashion items: a good design and high quality. Made by creative individuals who know what they are doing, not by marketers. That’s it.

Being extremely selective, buying what really makes sense only. In limited quantity. That is what we do.

Customer criticism Read More »

Net zero fashion

/ Leave a Comment

Greenwashing from the top down

Net zero fashion is one of the latest buzzwords in sustainability. But can we trust those who promote their garments with this label?

We know that green eco-whatever labels have flooded the fashion industry, like any other activity related to selling products or services. The food industry was probably the first to launch organic products, which, by itself, means nothing. See the video here. Also, according to Fondazione Veronesi, the differences between organic and non-organic food are few and negligible. 

After the food industry, it was time for fashion, furniture and now, sustainable tourism, all of which sound like enormous bullshit.

Net zero fashion according to the UN

Take the UN playbook on “Sustainable Fashion Communication.” Though the basic principle, fighting overconsumption, is valuable, we didn’t like the fact they mention some fashion brands. It seems like they take for granted that these brands are doing great work in terms of sustainability while they are perfectly aware that there is zero control!

For instance, the UN playbook mentions Allbirds. 
“Footwear brand Allbirds developed a life cycle assessment (LCA) tool to estimate the cradle-to-grave carbon footprint of its products.”
“Allbirds then took it a step further in 2023 announcing what it refers to as the world’s first net zero carbon shoe.”
At some point, a line that says: “According to the company’s assessment, on average, a pair of Allbirds shoes has a footprint of 7.12 kg CO2e.”

That “according to the company” sounds really weird! Even more, coming from the UN! They better avoid mentioning any fashion brand…

Net zero fashion according to Business of Fashion

By the way, a few days later, a newsletter from the Business of Fashion got our attention. It was about Allbirds and the launch of their new sneakers. We quote B.O.F:

“By focusing on materials that draw down more carbon than they emit and lowering transport and manufacturing impact as much as possible, the brand says it has succeeded in designing ‘the world’s first net zero-carbon shoe.’ But the basis of such calculations for the industry is fraught. Fashion’s environmental impact data is notoriously poor and accepted standards for carbon accounting are still evolving, meaning net-zero product claims are testing new ground.”

Net zero according to science

So what? The UN released the playbook to help spread sustainable fashion communication, but they did not do a great job. It seems like they are greenwashing from the top down.

Since there is no control, it is not serious to mention fashion brands at all. Also, since the UN says “lead with science” – on this point, we totally agree! So, here is what the climate scientist Kevin Anderson says about net zero:

“Net Zero is a real dangerous turn in my view, and if you hear the language of net zero, I’d be very cautious about the optimism of the person who’s saying it actually has. Unpick it, reveal what’s behind it, and you’ll realise what they mean, and what they mean is NOT zero emissions, not net zero, not zero emissions. 
I always say ‘net zero’ is Latin for ‘kick the can down the road.”

Kevin Anderson

Lead with science UN, and reveal what’s behind net zero fashion!

Net zero fashion Read More »

Stop sales!

/ Leave a Comment

Things that matter #formodernhumans

In order to promote a healthier consumption pattern, we need to stop end-of-season sales. In fact, sales, in general, are a short-sighted strategy that triggers compulsive behaviour and perpetrates a toxic productive system.

Fighting unsustainable consumption and production patterns is part of the new guidelines the UN released recently. The fashion industry contributed directly and significantly to the triple planetary climate change crisis, nature and biodiversity loss, pollution and waste.

This is what really matters! But changing consumption habits takes immediate action.

So, the purpose is to eradicate overconsumption. Therefore, we address high markdowns as an element of a money-driven system that has generated a devastating environmental impact. But first, we need to understand how the system works. Then, we find solutions.

How the fashion system works:

Brands ask for budgets (minimum amount or quantity) from retailers. Usually, these budgets increase season after season.
Because of this practice, retailers buy way more than they can sell. So, they generate overstock.
This overstock, in turn, leads to a higher retail price. That is because a high quantity of merchandise gets sold during end-of-season sales. And higher prices during the season covers partially this loss.
Because of this overstock, retailers apply frequent promotions, markdowns and sales in order to induce clients to purchase more.

It’s a vicious cycle where everything is connected. Consumption and production go hand in hand. So, we cannot fix one if we do not fix the other.

Stop Sales! How retailers can eradicate overconsumption:

  • reduced quantities of clothing and accessories ordered per season in store
  • avoiding overstock would allow equitable prices throughout the season
  • stop Black Fridays, promotions and sales
  • teach clients to buy less, much less, but only quality products. Clothing and accessories made to last over time. Also, teach them the value of their purchase.

Sales aren’t a sustainable strategy. The more you buy discounted items, the more brands flood the market with pointless products. And where are we heading with this behaviour? Read it here!

What consumers can do:

Don’t be part of the system that has generated the climate crisis. Try to change it instead.
Buy less, much less during the season. Take only quality garments you can match with the clothes you already have and that you can reuse.
Don’t buy trendy items, but choose a timeless aesthetic.
Quality, not quantity. And remember: good design doesn’t have an expiry date.

If you want to share your views or know more, comment here below or WhatsApp!

Stop sales! Read More »

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24

/ Leave a Comment

Riots and Fashion in Paris

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 risked cancellation due to five days of riots across France, which spread after the police killed a young boy. Though Celine cancelled its defile, the fashion shows took place.

We have seen so much vulgarity lately that runways like Chanel, Dior, and Armani, at least, gave a sense of elegance. That is on a positive note.

“In my opinion, today there are few maisons that really do haute couture. I’m starting to no longer recognise myself in this Paris. I have always placed myself in a more glamorous Paris, and now I no longer find myself there. I wonder if it’s not time for a change.” – said Giorgio Armani

However, it seems clear, once again, that megabrands aren’t willing to take any effective action to fight the climate emergency, apart from lots of talks about sustainable fashion. Which is pointless since nothing ever changes.

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 vs sustainability

On the one hand, some brands had the plus of showing elegance, which stands out in an ocean of horrible and gross clothing. On the other hand, they sent on the runway countless numbers of new outfits. Precisely on the latter, we need to take into account two main points:
First, very few lucky ones can afford these couture clothes. Maybe they would have enough choices even with smaller collections. Even because couture is tailor-made, so it allows customising every single item.
Second, these clothes will be worn by celebrities who receive very generous compensation for wearing them. A marketing operation that isn’t free. Meaning it is not free for the fashion Maison but, in the end, for the final customers, too. In fact, consumers who purchase from those brands will bear the price. Indeed the cost of celebrities gets spread on the company costs in general and on any product category.

Therefore, we wonder: what is the point of the overproduction behind these couture shows? Who is it for? Is it to allure consumers while ignoring a climate emergency, but then, taking part in sustainability round tables? Please stop it!
Smaller couture collections would work anyway. By having, at the same time, a lower impact and less waste of materials and resources.

Further news: Saudi Arabia is a newcomer to Paris Haute Couture FW23-24. Indeed, they are investing billions to become the new favourites in the high-end fashion segment. Money that comes from oil, which, we expect, brands will invest in sustainable fashion!

In short, couture, by definition, is sustainable. But mega brands are doing their best to make it unsustainable.

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 Read More »

UN against overconsumption

/ Leave a Comment

Fashion marketers as the key to a new narrative

The UN says fashion needs to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, we are perfectly aligned since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. Though a selection of pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been part of our viewpoint.
Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue

According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption

Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and end-of-season sales while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value.
Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

UN against overconsumption Read More »