What is fashion design today?

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Sharing some thoughts on contemporary fashion design

What is fashion design today? What is it? When everything is already done and nothing new can be made? But you still happen to read news about “the one who complained the other one copied her.”

So what is it when those who started their own collection or image concept already did it by taking inspiration from others and remixing what other designers have already done! Perhaps they don’t even realise where their ideas come from.

And what is fashion design today? When contemporary creatives have no humility to say: ‘I made this’ – and this is my style because I took inspiration from this or that designer who made such a fantastic work.

What is fashion design today? If people praise the ones who complain that another designer has copied them! But for what? For flower prints? Or for flowered head decorations? Really?

Again, what is fashion design today? When everything is possible. So brands who assemble clothes as we’ve seen trillion of times, feel like the new gods of fashion.

And when inspiration and remixing have flattened the fashion industry to such a degree that everything, every brand, looks the same. And doing so has deprived fashion of its DNA, core differences and, in essence, of its meaning.

Can modern designers, creative directors and so on stay humble? If they feel copied, Mr Cristobal should resurrect and say something about endless collections made from his archive! Can people understand there is no true genius in the fashion industry nowadays?

On 14 October, in Florence, Antonio Marras arranged a show making clothes for 20 cancer patients; the defilè – “Sfilata del prendersi cura” (the show of taking care) – was a message of hope. You can watch it here. But, an Italian brand accused him of copying her.
Really?

This sterile controversy made us reflect. First, Marras’ idiosyncrasy has never been in question. Also, bravo for this caring project! In the end, what is fashion design today? It’s about copy and paste. In some cases, following a valuable guiding idea. In most cases -those who tend to complain – pointless reproductions we could avoid seeing. Moreover, it has been done so many times, that the arrogance to claim originality seems out of context.

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New beauty standards in China

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Empowering women vs societal expectations

Whether for feminism or practical reasons, women are redefining beauty standards in China. By challenging the traditional ideal of femininity, some young Chinese women want to be free to express their individuality. And we couldn’t be more proud of such a brave choice.

Women, buzz cut & beauty duty

Patriarchal society shaped the rules which subdued women over time. Long hair has always represented the image women have to conform to, not only in China. However, a new trend reports a step towards empowering women against societal expectations. Specifically, Chinese women started breaking the rule by switching the classic haircut with a bold buzz cut.

The buzz cut is easier to manage, low-maintenance and high-impact. It is not just a matter of fashion, it goes beyond that. Indeed, it represents a powerful statement: freedom and self-determination. The buzzcut is a synonym for self-confidence and independence. And so the trend is rising in China, and more women are opting for it.

Along with it, another trend is growing: “embrace beauty without makeup.” It’s a way to defy the “beauty duty” that forces women to maintain their appearance, imprisoning them in oppressive standards.

Beauty standards: western vs Chinese

We live in a man’s world. By analysing historical and cultural context, we can see that beauty standards are the embodiment of a male perspective and a market demand. In fact, everywhere in the world, society brainwashes women to conform to a specific image. And to stick to those precise features that women – of course – believe are the fruit of their personal reasoning or independent thought. On the Western side of the world, we witness this distorted idea of feminism: women conform to contemporary stereotypes that (just by chance?) perfectly reflect a man’s viewpoint. And women call it freedom!

So, what happens in China surprises us positively. In a society where social norms and traditions are so deeply rooted, Chinese women’s choice against “beauty duty” represents a brave move.

Indeed, by rejecting traditional ideas of feminine beauty, new beauty standards in China are an inspiration to nonconformism and women’s empowerment. Most importantly, it should make us reflect on what beauty standards really hide.

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Miscellaneous thoughts on fashion

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A critical perspective on the industry

Three miscellaneous thoughts on fashion we’ve read this week seem to have something in common: fashion’s lack of understanding of its role in climate change.

Fashion & the heatwave in Italy

In order to tackle the heatwave in Italy, Federmoda – the organisation that represents retail and wholesale companies in the fashion field – asks to reduce taxes on made-in-Italy and sustainable garments.
“Made in” is a very tricky concept to address. According to the Updated Community Customs Code (EC Regulation 04/23/2008 n° 450 – art. 36 – on the non-preferential customs origin of goods), a product can be considered of Italian origin – in the customs sense – and contain, therefore, the indication “Made in Italy” when the last substantial transformation or processing took place in our country. Ta-da!
So, brands can make production wherever, then assemble a few things in Italy and get the magic label.
However, since there is no precise regulation, labelling and certifying sustainable garments is way more problematic.
Perhaps this proposal can relieve the pressure on fashion retailers, but it doesn’t change the core issue: fashion business pattern.

Luxury brands & revenge shopping slow down

Consumption of luxury goods in China and the USA has dropped because the much-awaited post-pandemic revenge shopping is slowing down. In fact, stock markets report a general decline for luxury companies. And so, the slowdown in China’s recovery and the cooling of demand from US consumers are impacting top brands who, undaunted, still commit to the same old model.

Vuitton & inconsistency

Pharrell Williams aims to push expansion and growth in sales to Vuitton, but also culture. Undeniably, the white culture has dominated the industry so far, and it seems quite clear what audience Vuitton is targeting by partnering with Mr Pharrell. However, the brand has a long history at its back. So shifting the discussion on culture, specifically a culture not even consistent with its core image, is meaningless.
Let’s say openly: we want to sell more! But there’s no need to mention culture since Vuitton’s culture has nothing in common with this new air.

Three thoughts, one pattern

The above miscellaneous thoughts on fashion are connected: the industry business pattern plays a huge role in climate change. But the discussions industry insiders deliver, basically ignore the issue.

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About The White Shirt

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Wardrobe staples vs fashion trends

The White Shirt: mannish cut, well-tailored, slightly oversized to oversized, pristine go-with-everything garment. Button-down or ribbon collar, it’s perfect for any occasion. And any weather too!
So, is it a trend, as magazines say, or a wardrobe staple?

The White Shirt

Fashion, we all know it, is one of the most inconsistent fields where people say one thing and, the day after, change their minds. Perhaps this behaviour could work in times of abundance when we could carry on our activities while unconsciously ignoring what we were about to expect in the future. But now that the good times are gone, we need to get serious. These aren’t times for joking.

After the pandemic, a debate on how to rewire fashion to current times opened up an evolved set of possibilities: shift towards a timeless style and privileging conscious fashion. That stated the end of fashion trends.

The white shirt: fashion trend or staple

However, after Milano and Paris Fashion Weeks, fashion magazines refocused on trends. Again, we repeat it: the fashion industry is inconsistent. People talk about one thing just to take it back as soon as the new thing comes.

Among the unmissable trends, magazines list the white shirt. And here, the inconsistency is peaking.
What is a trend? A trend is what’s popular in a specific season and which will die soon. Do you think that’s the case for a white shirt? Does it make sense to put among trends an item that is the quintessential representation of timelessness?

Wardrobe staples #formodernhumans

The White Shirt has some of the most stunning style features:
Genderless: anyone can wear it.
Comfortable: it allows the movement of your body.
Seasonless: it’s perfect throughout the year. Underneath a cardi or jacket in winter, rolled up sleeves in summer.
Also, it’s versatile and adds an elegant and classy touch even to your casual outfits. All these features make it a staple for our wardrobe of meaningful garments. So, it’s timeless: never out of fashion. Not a trend!

We are sorry that fashion experts still intend to make fashion a game of transient clothing. That doesn’t work anymore. And, undeniably, that’s not the case with the white shirt.

WhatsApp directly from here to check out our GoodNeighbors Shirts selection!

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This is Autumn?

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Global boiling & its impact on the fashion industry

September 23rd was the first Autumn day, but this is Autumn? Sunday, the temperature in Milano reached 32 Celsius (about 90 Fahrenheit). In other words, we don’t have to wait for climate change – climate change is here. For brands and fashion retailers, it is particularly odd.

Specifically, it’s the global boiling era. Yet, in every industry, as well as in fashion, people work like nothing serious happens. Do they wear blinders? Don’t they feel the heatwave? Or maybe they think: “Yes, it’s hot, but there’s nothing we can do.”
As a matter of fact, in every field, people like cogs dutifully do their job. No questioning. It seems money, budgets, and turnover is what counts. Who cares if we are boiling?

What’s the impact of climate change on the fashion industry?

Fall/Winter shop windows reveal the inadequacy of fashion. Fashion is out of sync with current times.
First, people still wear lightweight clothing. We don’t need warm garments now. Indeed, stores overflow with wool sweaters, coats, down jackets, and all the winter stuff. But who dares now to try a wool sweater when the temperature invites you to the beach?
Second: sooner or later, cold weather will come. However, because of the heat wave, retailers who sell mass-produced garments will lose about two full-price months from the selling season. That means mass retailers’ unsold stock will be huge. Therefore, they will sell most garments during the end-of-season sale.

Autumn fashion in the global boiling era

In this context, it is clear that the actual pattern (mass manufacturing/ overproduction and distribution) doesn’t work anymore. We must stop and rethink the fashion industry from scratch. Ignoring climate change is dangerous nonsense since it is now a tangible reality.

Also, the above points come from a financial perspective, while ethics should be our first concern. Raising awareness on climate action is crucial. We must reduce our impact on the planet. How do we do it? By limiting by far our consumption to what really counts. Consume less. Don’t buy pointless stuff. Avoid waste.

Above all, start asking yourself: This is Autumn?
Most people pretend nothing happens. But with what conscience do they keep their eyes closed?

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