The High-Neck Sweater

Today we are introducing another staple of the new collection:
The High-Neck Sweater. By Plantation1982.

All the pieces included in our Fall/Winter selection are easy to match and offer various styling possibilities. The design may look simple at first glance, but details are never left to chance. Indeed, they are all very well curated. That is the point of good design.

The material is 100% cotton, with an exceptionally soft hand. And its ripple structure is swollen like a tube, replacing the usual rib structure.

the high-neck sweater
The High-Neck Sweater
Plantation1982

The collar is slightly higher than the bottleneck so that it covers the neck fully, but it does not have a hold feeling like any typical high neck. Its design adds style while leaving the body free to move.

Furthermore, the vertical texture of the fabric makes it difficult to pick up the lines of your body and underwear. As a result, this garment is extra comfortable to wear.

The high-neck sweater is the perfect piece for the turn of the season, but it is easy to use as an inner for cardigans or jackets too. So you feel its softness in contact with the skin.

Also, the uneven border pattern expressed by the weaving gives a casual yet elegant impression. And the styling options are many. You can wear it with pants or skirts, depending on the need of the day. It can perfectly blend with casual or sporty outfits as with any more elegant look.

Now a note about the colour.
The base is dark green, an intense dark green, and the stripes are navy. This colour matching offers a soft and refined image.

Washed to give a unique texture, it’s an easy-care item. So, you can wash it by hand at home.

Perhaps you will buy lesser pieces, but you’ll take beautiful clothing that lasts over the years.
And you’ll love wearing them.

The fashion debate

The fashion debate taking place after the shows navigates between the same old system and pretending new ways. The interviews recently released seemed to send nonsensical messages. Indeed, it’s easy to notice a lack of consistency. Words that don’t match facts and resonate like a short-circuit in the industry.

However, if we want to change for the better, understanding what’s going on in the fashion field is fundamental. So, we have to analyse designers’ messages and perhaps, read between the lines.

On the one hand, the runways were all about merchandising. With the fashion shows, designers promoted a compelling ‘shop now’ message – more than ever. Proposals perfectly aligned to the pre-pandemic era, with no interruption regarding the lexicon.

On the other side, they are releasing interviews about sustainability. Some send ethical messages, eco-friendly references. Some others are talking about couture as a decisive strategy.

And so? What is the sense in that?

To make it clear, it is one way or the other.
Designers have to choose on what side they are on. A brand cannot produce tons of goods and then feel better because they select some sustainable materials. Or because they also have a couture line that, maybe one day, will save the world. In case the world shifts its direction for real. But, in the meantime, they push for over-consumption.

The choice is between overproduction or couture, mass-market versus lesser productions. It’s one or the other.
Focus on pure merchandising or conscious proposals, one or the other.
Empty marketing claims to show to the world how ethical or sustainable they suddenly became versus providing value and beautiful collections.
Again, between fostering the status quo or having the courage to start something new. It is one or the other.

They can’t have it both ways.
The two ingredients don’t fit on the same plate.

‘Overconsumption = Extinction’

Overproduction is devastating our culture, and it’s directly connected to the way we consume. Indeed we discussed this topic in many of our previous posts. We recognize that it’s deeply rooted in our social context.

October 5, Louvre Art Gallery. When the Louis Vuitton fashion show started, an activist broke in, carrying a sign reading:
“Overconsumption = Extinction.”

The protestor represented ‘Amis de la Terre France’, ‘Youth for Climate’ and ‘Extinction Rebellion’. She marched down the runway along with the models until a security guard forced her to leave.

Overproduction protest at Louis Vuitton show
Photo credit: Amis De La Terre FR

The reason for the protest? It was stated on the banner clearly.
Why LVMH? It’s understandable since LVMH is a luxury conglomerate. So to say, a profit-oriented corporation.

It’s known that corporations make profits by exploiting the market, squeezing the lemon to the max.

Overproduction is the way corporations thrive. They run ever faster, renewing the range of products nonstop. Doesn’t it sound familiar with the market of mobile phones too? And in order to be able to sell all the tons of goods they produce, they push people to consume more and more – to the point of brainwashing them by playing with marketing tricks.

This protest went on after a pandemic, precisely during a fashion week in which some shifts were awaited. Even more, ‘rewiring fashion’ seemed a subject so dear to many major industry players.

If not radical changes, at least, we expected to see a little sign.
Despite this, the only news was the protester disrupting a fashion show.

Is there another way to do fashion? As to do business in general?
Of course. But, it’s not mainstream.
Also, two more facts are striking: first, people talk – a lot – but still buy fast fashion. Second, none talks about the impact of technology, which perhaps sells more than fashion.

What we consume and how we consume makes the difference. Obviously, it’s not related to fashion only. It’s about all industries. It’s a matter of lifestyle.

Shifting your habits is the only way to avoid extinction. Hear the protest if you care enough for the future.

The Striped Tunic Sweater

Going ahead with defining a capsule wardrobe, today we introduce:
The Striped Tunic Sweater. By Plantation1982.

Here we are going to tell you more about the material and design. Which, at first, may look simple, but each detail is deeply curated.
Perhaps noticing details is something people are not used to anymore, though we know that some individuals have a special eye. But for those who don’t, we hope you’ll rediscover the pleasure of being more attentive, and maybe, more curious.

Made in Japan, this sweater is 100% cotton – with a soft hand. It’s easy to match, and its cosy silhouette adds an elegant touch even to casual outfits.

the-striped-tunic-sweater
The Striped Tunic Sweater
Plantation

The ripple structure is swollen, like a tube – replacing the usual rib working.
The boat neck is shallow in the vertical direction and wide in the horizontal. This design makes the neckline look beautiful.

In addition, the vertical texture of the fabric makes it difficult to pick up the lines of your body and underwear. As a result, this garment is very comfortable to wear.

The tunic sweater is perfect for the turn of the season. But no worries, when the weather gets colder, it is easy to layer over it with a cardigan. Or a tank top or t-shirt underneath.
Since the material surface is uneven, it will look great with many outfits.

The length is 168 cm, so it comfortably covers the hip line.

Now the colour: Off-white.
The base is off-white as a gentle cream. The stripes are mocha brown, giving an overall light and soft impression.

This product is washed to give it a unique texture.
And, most imp you can wash it by hand at home.

Educating ourselves to be aware of what we buy. Taking more time to evaluate, appreciating details – is a worthy exercise.
The world is full of garbage, we don’t need more of it. Choose wisely.

Paris Fashion Week – En plein air

A couple of messages seem clear from Paris Fashion Week. Apart from the most evident fact that nothing truly has changed. The idea of renovating a system, so discussed during the pandemic, changing its outdated foundations, providing new guiding principles and deeper values — has failed miserably. That’s what fashion ruled by finance does. Forget lesser productions with better quality – this is not for corporations.

Image of Paris during fashion week
Paris

So, what are the takeaways from Paris fashion shows

Nature’s calling
Sea, trees, woods. This message seemed quite strong. Indeed, many designers have set up their fashion shows immersed in nature. As to celebrate something we all missed for over a year or more. Or a desire to reconnect with our so mistreated vital element.

Clothes have no gender
We saw male models walking the runway in skirts or dresses and females in man’s suits – interchangeable genderless outfits. Not that it’s something new. In fact, Gaultier already did it about 40 years ago. But perhaps, the time is ripe now for a wider audience. 

At this point, garments have lost their traditional gender connotation. An aesthetic that, from a historical viewpoint, has been developed as a reflection of patriarchy.
We understand this is a big topic. Indeed, it requires a deeper analysis, a full exploration. So we will dedicate a whole post later on.
However, coming from a Gaultier influence, we always picked out men’s pieces for women or vice versa. If a garment looks good, no matter if it’s men’s or women’s. From now on, we hope there is a free attitude towards how clothing is perceived.

Garments are not stand-alone pieces. They become alive once we wear them. Without our intervention, clothes are empty. It’s us and our personality that completes them. 

The way we represent clothes, the way we portray them is called style. 
It’s an individual posture, the reflection of who we are. 

The Wide-Leg Pants

This week we take the chance to introduce you to another cool piece: The Wide-Leg Pants.
We picked it from Plantation. The attention they put on quality fabrics with a soft hand feel makes them unique.
This trouser is another item that cannot be missed in your wardrobe. Aiming to put together a capsule wardrobe made of quality clothing, items made to last, we pick out only the pieces we really need.

The wide-leg pants, in dark green supima cotton • by Plantation1982
The Wide-Leg Pants
Plantation

Indeed, there is a specific reason for every single garment we select. In this case, fit, comfort, and coolness are the top.

Same as ‘The straight-leg pants’, it’s made of 100% Supima cotton – a soft fabric with an elegant luster like a silk blend. This classic stretch material got renewed: the brushed reverse side makes it comfortable for the Autumn / Winter season.
With its soft stretch and warmth but not too thick hand, you can wear it starting in September when the weather is still warm.

It is comfortable to wear for its soft texture and shape. The line does not widen too much even if it is wide-leg, and it gives a nice effect of falling.

Coin pockets like jeans add that casual design detail. As it has a glossy feel, it is a piece that plays well with various beautiful styling. From informal to elegant occasions, it will blend well with your garments.

The colour is a calm dark green, with low brightness but high saturation, and it is not too flashy, so it is easy to incorporate as an accent colour.

The composition is: 98% cotton – 2% polyurethane
You can wash it by hand.

As soon as we receive the pieces we have selected, we check the fit on different body shapes in order to be able to give you the best advice. Yes, it’s because we are obsessed with the perfect fit.

The wide-leg pants look good if you are thin, but they suit bigger sizes very well too.

A conversation with Marc Le Bihan

Sunday morning, it was pouring hard when we reached our appointment with Marc Le Bihan – in Tortona district. Even though we made our selection the day before, we wanted to dig deeper into his profound couture universe. In a transitional era, where everything looks unstable and meaningless, his persistent artisanal contribution makes the difference.

Marc Le Bihan is a fashion designer, artist, and craftsman who creates clothes like a second skin. His work goes beyond any classification. His conceptual creativity – manifested through impeccable tailoring, is the expression of a cultured and timeless approach to fashion that refuses trends and their transience.
Completely disconnected from commercial fashion constraints, his couture is a rare example of consistency.

White series from Marc Le Bihan SS22 collection
Marc Le Bihan SS22

• What does it mean to be consistent? Keeping up with your vision when the rest of the world goes in a different direction?
Marc Le Bihan: “The other direction is not my world. I do not understand it. To me, it’s a problem of society. I don’t understand the way of being, the lifestyle. That world is not me, and I can’t even think about it.
Usually, I don’t watch TV. Yesterday I watched Italian TV, and I wondered, how is it possible? Women pretend to be free, showing exaggerated lips and boobs. But in that, I only see the reflection of a man’s vision. That is not freedom. It’s the fake image of a woman.”

• The state of fashion now. How do you see it?
Marc Le Bihan: “The problem with fashion is that people only see the lights, the famous people. There is no sensibility to go further. Branded products are not luxury, not anymore. Luxury is rare, and it’s not for all.
To me, it’s not about fashion but more about doing clothes my way. The two roads can cross each other but not as direction to follow.”

• What do you think about social media communication?
Marc Le Bihan: “Famous people promote everything. They get paid to sell, it’s all about money. And not only for fashion. Maybe they promote a food they didn’t even taste. We live in the culture of image, not real life. People don’t live the moment, take pictures. And everything is ego-centred. People have lost the meaning of quality and quality of life.
That is why I follow my path.
Our communication is not to do any communication. Everything is too confused, there’s too much of it. We don’t have time for social media, we are busy making clothes. However, it’s not about posting a thousand things. Sometimes we post. Enough.”

• It’s a matter of culture and education?
Marc Le Bihan: “Always. The first problem is education, for everything.
The idea of accessing through culture and education to something higher – is dead. And I am concerned about young kids. Now they are totally immersed in this image game.”

• What do you think about sustainability?
Marc Le Bihan: “Well, I did it 20 years ago! We were recycling and upcycling uniforms and parachutes. I don’t want to be a part of that circle because everybody is doing it. It’s marketing. To me, it’s more about how we consume and live. Of course, I use sustainable materials, but I don’t advertise. To claim it means being part of the system.
My idea is to keep a garment for ten years in the wardrobe, then take it out and still want to wear it because it’s timeless.
Mine is a work in progress. If a shirt is good, it’s good forever.”

“Couture is sustainable by definition. There is no overproduction, no minimum orders, and no sales. We produce only on orders, and everything is handmade. Moreover, we find our balance not in over profit. But if everybody gets well paid, we all can live.
My staff has been working with me for 25 years. Always the same people, same suppliers. We understand each other.
We work like this. Many pieces are made in casa, a la maison, in our atelier.”

He smiled saying those words. Stubbornly showing a path that is a return to the essential, pure artisanal creativity.

Milano Fashion Week – ‘Rewiring fashion’ they said?

Back to back, physical fashion shows, digital presentations. Both, in some cases. All perfectly aligned with the pre-pandemic world. You can smell the status quo. And not for fear or lack of courage, rather because that’s the way to make money.

More than anything else, the urgent brands’ intent seemed the will to connect with the Chinese market. This quest reverberated like a scream or a cry for help in the majority of the presentations.

The only new element (in case we still want to consider it so) is the calling of a diverse flood of models. Now different silhouettes or ethnicities are well represented in fashion events, and it is clearly positive. Although it’s lovely that anyone can identify with the models and see how dresses fit on various body shapes, the problem is that many of these new generations of boys and girls have no sense of elegance. So the image of these fashion shows looks poorly.

The Roof Milano
Milano Fashion Week
The Roof Milano

It is not that now the trend is more sporty, it is the comment we heard during a fashion show. It’s that elegance is dead. Culturally dead, in wearing, speaking, or living.

Most importantly, there is no shift in terms of communication. Indeed, what emerged is the same way of spreading the work. Perhaps with a further decrease of the overall perceived value. The Instagram way seemed still relevant, with all the related circus. Which, by the way, we found boring. If not annoying.
We are fed up with it, aren’t you?

The official press, or what remains of it, can only be condescending or applauding. Budgets for advertising are already cut to the bones, better avoid any further reduction.

Designers are creatives, and creatives are supposed to have views about style, life, and the future.

What is the vision?
What kind of woman do they want to promote?
What kind of future do they want to see?

Apart from the empty marketing slogans, which want to represent the (fake) change, what are we talking about?

The Straight Leg Pants

When we talk about the perfect fitting, some look at us as we are mad. Or we are trying to fool them. Yes, in the overproduction era, people believe clothes are all the same.

In fact, we are a little obsessed with the perfect fit because this reveals an accurate design. Specifically, what stands at the base of a garment, giving it the proper structure.
Nowadays it’s known that people are used to whatever is cheap. So the quality of materials, just like the fit, is not taken into account. People accept modern slavery just to buy fast fashion. Would they ever question quality?

However, we question what we see as we obsessively look for good design.
The search for the perfect fit for trousers has its specific meaning. While you can adjust here and there a top or a dress to make it look good, pants must have the perfect cut.

And so we laid our eyes upon the special one: The Straight-Leg Pants. By Plantation – a Japanese brand born sustainable in 1982.

The straight leg pants in black supima cotton - by Plantation1982
The Straight Leg Pants
Plantation

Made of 100% Supima cotton, it’s a soft fabric with an elegant luster like a silk blend. This classic stretch material got renewed: the brushed reverse side makes it comfortable for the Autumn / Winter season.

Also, with its soft stretch and warmth but not too thick hand, you can wear it immediately from September when the weather is still warm.
And since the pockets on both sides are slit pockets, the waistline looks neat.

The colour? Black. Easy-to-use and easy to match with any item.
Indeed, the styling possibilities for this wardrobe staple are countless. The slender silhouette goes well with dresses and tunics, too. Try the casual style with a rolled-up hem.

The composition is: 98% cotton – 2% polyurethane
You can wash it by hand.

We tested it on different body shapes and are delighted to tell you that the fitting is absolutely fantastic!
Yes, we don’t need too many pieces. We only need the right ones.

Please, contact us for any further information.

Spring/Summer 22 – Selection in the digital era

One of the most striking side effects of the pandemic is the acceleration towards the digital world. And when it comes to the research of brands, it can bring some positive outcomes.

In September and October, the designers show their new collections for the following season. We are now picking out our Spring/Summer 22 selection.

Some brands opted for a mixed formula, physical and digital, while many others decided to present their new collections only through digital tools. So, like it or not, that’s the offer.
Obviously, companies in the fashion field lost a lot of money because of the pandemic. Digital is a strategy to recover. Also, they realized how few people they needed to make the workflow internationally. (This loss of jobs is its own problem).

We are not satisfied with the trend of discovering new brands via Instagram only. First, the communication of many brands is oriented to push the image of a woman we do not want to endorse: plastic face, doughnut lips, tons of make-up. Furthermore, it’s easy to cover up poor quality clothing in an Instagram pic.

Scrolling down, you may see so many infinite offers of clothing that seem like beautiful quality. At first sight, at least. After a deeper analysis, you realize it was just a nice pic. Fast fashion brands know this trick very well.

A satisfying implication of digital fashion is that material is more accessible compared to the past. In fact, we are receiving many look books and line sheets. So that it’s easier to have an idea of what’s going on in terms of style.
Through accurate presentations and line sheets, you have the chance of knowing more about materials and fitting.

If it is true that nothing will ever change the experience of touching the fabrics, now we have the opportunity to make a selection without travelling the world.
Even though the integration is brilliant, we have to find the perfect balance.