human rights

Next in line: Loro Piana investigated for labour exploitation

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The count begins again — yet another high-end brand faces allegations, exposing systemic abuses in fashion’s supply chain


Next in line: Loro Piana.
The luxury label has become the latest name under scrutiny. So, the count begins again. Another crack in the polished image of luxury fashion.

The Milan Court has placed Loro Piana S.p.A., part of the LVMH group and chaired by Antoine, the son of French tycoon Bernard Arnault, under judicial administration for one year. The company is accused of indirectly subcontracting production to Chinese-owned firms allegedly involved in labour exploitation.

This makes it the fifth luxury brand caught in the web of investigations into labour rights violations within Italy’s high-end supply chain — following Giorgio Armani Operations, Alviero Martini S.p.A., Manufactures Dior, and Valentino. So far, charges against the first three were dropped before conclusion, but the abuses were real.

As Corriere reports, “Loro Piana S.p.A. failed to verify the actual operational capacity of the contractors and subcontractors it relied on, and neglected to carry out meaningful inspections or audits over the years to assess the true state of its supply chain and working conditions.”

This development clashes with the recent signing of a “protocol of understanding,” involving the country’s most representative trade unions and employers’ associations, aimed at ensuring compliance with the law within the high-end fashion supply chain. Yet their actions tell a different story.

Loro Piana: The investigations reveal systemic issues in luxury fashion


According to prosecutors, Loro Piana outsourced the production of garments — including jackets — to third-party companies where labour exploitation allegedly occurred. The Milan court has placed the brand under one year of judicial supervision, which may be lifted early if the company takes adequate steps to comply with labour laws.

As reported by Corriere della Sera, the investigation revealed that Loro Piana entrusted manufacturing to Evergreen Fashion Group S.r.l., a company that lacked its own production facilities. Evergreen subcontracted the work to Sor-Man S.n.c. in Nova Milanese. Without sufficient production capacity, Sor-Man outsourced once again — this time to Chinese-managed factories Clover Moda S.r.l. (in Baranzate) and Dai Meiying (in Senago).

These facilities reportedly employed undocumented Asian workers off the books, under inhumane and unsafe conditions. Workers were housed in illegal dormitories and forced to endure gruelling shifts — including nights and public holidays — as evidenced by spikes in electricity usage. They were paid far below the legal minimum wage, operated hazardous machinery without proper training, and lacked both health monitoring and basic workplace protections.

According to the investigation, Loro Piana’s production model was structured to cut costs and maximise profits. 
Indeed, that’s how capitalism works, isn’t it?

Final thoughts


In case we needed further proof: this isn’t just about Loro Piana. It never was. What we’re seeing is a pattern.
Subcontracting is not an accident — it’s a symptom of a supply chain built on deliberate denial.
The real issue isn’t one brand. It’s the system itself.
A system fuelled by capitalist logic: extraction, exploitation, and carefully maintained opacity.

For further context, revisit this post:
👉 Valentino Under Investigation: Subcontracting as a Supply Chain System

The count has begun again.
Next in line: Loro Piana.
And after the roll call is complete — after one name, then another — will anyone finally admit the truth?
This isn’t about a few bad apples.
It’s about a rotten tree.

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Bruce Springsteen: A rocker’s stand against Trumpism

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From the San Siro stage, a defiant cry against Trumpism and authoritarianism


30 June: Among the highlights of our summer, the Bruce Springsteen concert in Milano stands out as one of the most powerful—for the music, his hoarse, unmistakable voice, the legendary E Street Band, and the worldview it delivered. It was a celebration of rock and all its rebellious, soulful energy—channelled in defence of democracy.

A Land of Hope and Dreams is, in fact, a political tour—a heartfelt defence of the American values being eroded by Trumpism.

From the San Siro stage, Bruce Springsteen delivered not just a performance but a manifesto. A clear, unwavering act of resistance against authoritarianism and the toxic legacy of Trump. Dressed in a quietly sharp, impeccable style—a statement of elegance and restraint—he stood for the America he’s sung about for fifty years. An America that seems lost. Actually, an America we barely recognise.

“The America I’ve sung about for nearly 50 years is real despite all its flaws: it’s an incredible country with incredible people.”

“There are problems in every home, so thank you for listening to mine.”

Image of the Bruce Springsteen concert in Milano. The Boss wears a white shirt, dark tie and vest. Subtitles in italian make every word clear.

Bruce Springsteen in Milano: Music as a rallying cry for democracy


In essence, Springsteen’s message was clear. Italian subtitles on screen translate his speech. His bold words—an unfiltered indictment:

“The America I love is in the hands of a corrupt, treacherous, and incompetent administration. Tonight, we ask you to stand up for democracy, to raise your voice against authoritarianism, and to let freedom ring.
Right now, things are happening that are altering the true nature of democracy in our countries, and they are too important to ignore: the abuses of a president and a dishonest government.
In America, my home, people who exercise their freedom of speech and voice their dissent are being persecuted. This is happening right now.
The richest men find satisfaction in abandoning the world’s poorest children to disease and death. In my country, they are sadistically enjoying the pain inflicted on honest American workers.
They are betraying our strongest allies and siding with dictators, against those who fight for freedom. They are defunding American universities that refuse to bow to their ideological demands. And they are abducting American residents off the streets without due process, deporting them to detention centres and foreign prisons.
But I have hope that we will survive this too.”

Springsteen holds nothing back. He steps into the front row, gifts his harmonica to the crowd, embraces the audience, and lets the fans embrace him in return. Also, he thanks the fans for listening—then closes with these words:

“I have hope because I believe in the profound truth voiced by the great American writer James Baldwin: ‘Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced.’ In this world, there may not be as much humanity as we wish existed—but there is enough.”

Final thoughts


Springsteen didn’t just make the San Siro crowd sing, dance, and sweat—especially with his grand finale: Born in the U.S.A., Born to Run, Dancing in the Dark. He didn’t just give us a night of rock anthems—he gave us a call to arms. He left us with something even more powerful: a defiant cry, a musical and moral stand against Trumpism and authoritarianism.

In an era of rising authoritarianism, his defiance was a reminder: the fight for democracy isn’t just political—it’s cultural. And it’s ours to wage.

These values resonate more deeply than the divisive forces shaping today’s world.

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Facing the collapse: Culture, identity and language as acts of resistance

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How cultural resilience and linguistic diversity can challenge societal apathy


These days, it truly feels like we’re facing the collapse.
What do we learn from the appalling reality of our time? A time of endless war. First, Russia invaded Ukraine. Then, Israel razed Gaza to the ground, killing thousands of innocent people. And now — as if that weren’t enough — Israel, in what feels like a calculated move to shift global attention away from Gaza, has started a new war with Iran.

Meanwhile, in the U.S., we witness the mass deportation of immigrants. Innocent people, once again, becoming targets of Trump’s regressive politics. A president who promised to “make America great again,” and who claimed he would end wars, continues to fuel hatred, division, and instability.

The truth is: our world is collapsing under the weight of violence, injustice, and, above all, rising indifference. Each catastrophe piles onto an already fragile and unstable reality.

This is not the world we want.

We’re facing the collapse. And yet — in how we show up, there is a form of resistance.
We show up to connect with others like us, those who imagine a different world — one rooted in mutual respect, inclusivity, and care.

In our small activity, here at suite123, we choose to work with independent brands and artisanal realities. Behind each of them, behind every garment, there are real people — not machines, not systems. Just humans.
We honour the work of small, independent makers — those navigating a world of sharks in turbulent waters. Those who bring skill, passion, and ethics to an industry that often feels hollow.

And we choose to bring genuine connection.

Because this is our culture.
This is our identity.
This is our language.
And yes — this is our act of resistance.

🖤 If this resonates with you, share your thoughts with us—we’re listening.

Leave a comment below and let’s talk about it — (you’ll need to register first). Or DM @suite123 | WhatsApp | e.mail

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Max Mara under fire: Female workers expose “unacceptable working conditions”

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Fashion industry, capitalism & women’s labour rights — inside the hidden cost of luxury


Max Mara workers went on strike on May 22 and 23: “They Call Us Too Fat.” 
At the heart of Italian luxury lies a troubling contradiction. While Max Mara is celebrated for its timeless elegance and impeccable coats, the workers behind the brand—mostly women—are speaking out against harsh realities: rigid rules, physical exhaustion, wage theft, and blocked promotions.

The latest protest comes from Max Mara’s San Maurizio factory in Reggio Emilia, where 220 workers (mostly women) went on strike, supported by the Filctem-CGIL union.

Their demands? An end to “unacceptable working conditions” that they say belong to the 1980s, not modern Italy.

Max Mara workers: “They called us fat. They monitored our bathroom breaks.”


Inside the factory, employees describe a dehumanizing environment:

  • Body-shaming: They called us cows to be milked. They told us we were too fat, even suggesting we do exercises to slim down.”
  • Exploitative pay: “We’re basically paid by the piece, like machines on an assembly line.”
  • Surveillance and humiliation: “They monitor our bathroom breaks—even though we’re women with menstrual cycles.”

Erica Morelli, head of Filctem-CGIL in Reggio Emilia, condemned the company’s inaction: “Max Mara has built a wall. This strike is our last resort to demand basic respect.”

Marco Grimaldi, deputy leader of AVS in the Chamber of Deputies, commented on the matter, having submitted a parliamentary question: “The Max Mara giant doesn’t even apply the national collective textile agreement (CCNL), nor does it provide any transparency regarding emissions or climate protection.”

Luxury labels, sweatshop realities


This isn’t an isolated incident. Max Mara joins a long list of fashion brands tainted by labour abuse. Investigations have uncovered subcontracted workshops—so-called “dormitory factories” near Milan and Bergamo—where Chinese workers sew designer bags for just €2/hour. These same bags retail for €1,800–3,000.

Let’s break down the math:

  • Production cost per bag: €40–90
  • Retail price: Up to 3,000% markup
  • Worker’s share: Less than 1% of the retail price

In short, luxury fashion giants do business at the expense of people and the planet. Fashion fuels 5% of Italy’s GDP — yet it runs on modern-day slavery. That’s unacceptable.

Final thoughts: Capitalism’s ugly truth


The fashion industry is a mirror of capitalism—glamorous on the surface, exploitative underneath. Behind the sheen of luxury lies a system built on squeezing labour to maximize profits. And yet, as union leaders argue, raising pay by just €1–5 per item could radically change workers’ lives.

The testimonies of female workers at Max Mara reveal how deeply rotten the economic system is. Can the fashion industry really sustain itself by degrading the very people who power it?

Ultimately, they can apply patches—solutions that seem to work—coordinated with unions, police, whoever. But unless we address the root cause (the economic system itself), nothing will truly change.

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French Senate passes law to curb ultra-fast fashion 

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Targeting exploitative practices—or protectionism against China?


On Tuesday, 10 June, the French Senate approved a law to regulate ultra-fast fashion, with provisions that could ban advertising by Chinese e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu. The move amplifies France’s push to rein in the textile industry’s environmental toll—but raises questions about whom the law truly serves.

Last year, France’s National Assembly (the lower house) passed a bill to mitigate the textile sector’s ecological damage. Now, the Senate has voted nearly unanimously for a modified version, drawing a sharp line between fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion. The latter—dominated by Shein’s 7,200 daily new designs and Temu’s $5 dresses—faces stricter rules, while European brands like Zara and Kiabi escape the heaviest burdens.

The environmental stakes are undeniable. Ultra-fast fashion’s rock-bottom prices come at a cost: 35 garments are discarded every second in France, and the average person buys 48 items a year, according to the state agency Ademe. The law imposes penalties of up to €10 per item (or 50% of the pre-tax price) by 2030 for non-compliance with sustainability criteria.

But the political subtext is harder to ignore. French retailers like Jennyfer (liquidated in April) and NafNaf (in receivership since May) have long blamed Chinese competitors for their decline. By tailoring restrictions to platforms like Shein, the Senate risks framing this as a trade war—not a principled stand against exploitation.

Before implementation, the law must clear procedural hurdles: EU notification and reconciliation between parliamentary versions. Yet its asymmetry is already glaring. The bill attacks the symptom (ultra-fast fashion’s waste) while sidestepping the disease (an industry-wide race to the bottom on labour and ecology).

Final thoughts


The fast and ultra-fast fashion market is undeniably expanding—but so too are its consequences. These aren’t just environmental disasters; they’re social ones, built on exploited labour and disposable consumption. If the solution exempts European players clinging to the same model, is this really about ethics—or just economic self-interest?

The unanimous French Senate vote may suggest consensus, but it doesn’t resolve the contradiction. A truly ethical stance would challenge the exploitative model itself—whether the label reads “Made in China” or “Made in Europe.”

So, let’s return to the central question: Is this law a stand against fast fashion’s abuses—or merely a stand against China? The answer, much like the industry it targets, may not be as sustainable as it seems.

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